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pH Range: 5.0-5.5 is best
Lights: 14 – 16 hrs. a day
Water setting to 15 minutes on and 45 minutes off.

Plants that like this PH
Basil
Chamomile
Collard Greens
Daisy
Dandelion
Dill
Kale
Lemon Balm
Marigold
Mint
Parsley
Rosemary
Strawberries
Sunflower
Thyme
Tomato
Zucchini

Full Chart:
https://igworks.com/blogs/growing-guides/nutrient-and-ph-chart-for-growing-hydroponic-fruits-and-vegetables?srsltid=AfmBOor_RXT-WKGGj7P25jQGXOZ-PKGrpEQ60MWKu2VKHq5IT_LTPNzG

Measurement Definitions & Full Chart
There are 5 “measurement terms” that you’ll likely encounter when researching how to grow your plants — pH, TDS, EC, cF, and PPM. Here’s what each one means:

Hydroponic Charts for Fruits and Vegetables: pH, TDS, EC, cF, PPM

Nutrient solutions used for soilless culture should have a pH between 5 to 6 (usually 5.5), so the pH in the root environment is maintained between 6 to 6.5. This is the pH range at which nutrients are most readily available to plants.

In general, the ideal pH range for hydroponic crops is 5.5–6.0. However, different plants have different pH preferences, so it’s important to research the preferred pH range for the plants you’re growing.

pH measures how acidic or basic a solution is, with 7 being neutral. The pH of the nutrient solution affects how available nutrients are to the plants. If the pH is too low, it can prevent plants from accessing vital minerals. If the pH is too high, it can also prevent plants from accessing nutrients and can clog the hydroponic system.

To ensure your plants are getting the nutrients they need, it’s important to measure the pH regularly and maintain it within the optimal range. You can also use separate nutrient reservoirs for plants with similar pH ranges.

Tower Growing

Day-Neutral Strawberry Plants for The Longest Strawberry Season! This is important for getting your strawberries to flower and produce fruit. If you stick them in the same system as lettuce, the lettuce may become bitter.

Pinch off blooms if you don’t have at least 6 true leaves so strawberries grow large.

Remove runners. So all nutrients go to fruit not new propagation. You can propagate these in water for new plants.

Ready to eat in about 80 days if starting with bare roots.

Strawberries:

Sunlight: Strawberries need at least 8 hours of direct sunlight per day. If using grow lights, you may need to keep them on for at least 14 – 16 hours.

pH: Keep the pH of your Tower Garden between 5.5 and 6.5.

Ventilation: Keep your Tower Garden in a well-ventilated area to avoid fungus. You can use an HVAC system or fans to circulate air.

Watering: Set an automatic timer for the pump to run for 15 minutes on and 45 minutes off. Strawberry roots don’t like to be too wet.

Planting: Soak the roots of bare-root strawberry plants for an hour before planting. Trim away any dead roots, but be careful because they might just be dormant. You can also protect the plant with a rock wool cube wrapped around the crown or just below it. Cut a hole in the bottom of the net pot so the roots can come through easily.

Strawberries from Bare Root

How to Grow Strawberries from Seeds

Strawberry seed is tiny. The small seed requires special care at planting time. Get a good start and build a productive berry patch by following these 5 steps for growing strawberries from seed.

1. Start Seeds Indoors

Alpine strawberries will produce fruit the first summer after planting if the seeds are started indoors about 8 weeks before the last frost. Sow the tiny seeds in a seed-starting flat or shallow container filled with fine seed starting mix. Sprinkle the seeds on top of the starting mix. Barely cover the seeds with soil; they need light to germinate. Mist the soil daily to keep it moist but not wet. Be careful not to water too intensely; too much water will disturb the seeds, pushing them down into the soil where they will not be able to germinate.

Provide a strong light source above the seeded flat. A grow light or a shop light positioned about 6 inches above the flat will help seeds germinate. Maintain a moderate air temperature around the flat. Strawberry seeds germinate best at 65 to 70℉. Alpine strawberries can also be seeded directly in the garden after the last frost.

2. Let Seeds Germinate

Strawberry seeds are slow to germinate. Expect to wait at least 14 days to as long as 45 days for tiny leaves to pop out of the soil. Continue to mist the soil, not allowing it to dry out, and providing plenty of light as you wait. The long germination time adds to the importance of planting seeds at least 8 weeks before the last frost in spring to ensure berries are produced the first year.

3. Prepare Seedlings to Be Planted

Help berry seedlings transition from consistently warm indoor growing conditions to more unpredictable outdoor weather by making the move slowly. When seedlings have multiple sets of leaves and are at least 3 inches tall, acclimate them to outdoor growing conditions by setting seedlings outside for several hours each day and bringing them inside at night. After seedlings are acclimated to the outdoors for a week or so, they are ready to be planted in the garden.

Tap each section when building (don’t hit hard).

Lower nutrients to 1/4 strength in heat of summer.

Flush tank more frequently.

Plant stress (leaves yellowing or wilting)  ck PH (5-5.5) – ck for Pests – Use less nutrient.

To keep water cool – keep revivor full – put in 3 – 6 frozen water bottles during the day – keep out of sun for part of the day.

Best time for strawberries is during cool days.

Calabrate ph tester

HOW TO STORE THE PH SOLUTIONS LONG TERM (re-use in the future):
1. Place each solution in a clean jar and store out of sunlight (i.e. cupboard or pantry).
2. Label the jar with the correct PH value of the solution
3. The solution will keep for about 8 months before a weird slime begins to develop. Maybe this will never happen, maybe it will happen sooner. None the less, this is how I store mine and they last 8-12 months before it’s time to dump them.
4. Recalibrate the meter, or check in on it’s accuracy using the stored solutions anytime.

1. Prepare the rockwool cubes for use, making sure to soak them in pH adjusted water to bring their pH down between 5.5 and 6.5.
2. You can add a few drops of lemon juice or pH down to the water, or use pH test strips. 
3. Add nutrients to the water. You can use a mild vegetative hydroponic nutrient solution, or add a teaspoon of rapid start for every five gallons of water. 
4. How to use FloraGro with seedlings?

   A general rule of thumb is to use 1/4 teaspoon of each FloraSeries nutrient per gallon of water for seeds, cuttings, or delicate seedlings. 
5. Soak for 5 hours.
6. Drain with a strainer for 1/2 to 1 hr.
7. To Plant Seeds:
   1. Insert 2 seeds in the hole on the top of the rockwool cube. Use a toothpick or other similar object to press the seeds down to the bottom of the hole.
   2. Pinch the hole closed.
   3. Place the cubes in a nursery tray and cover with a humidity dome to lock in moisture.
   4. Maintain at 70 – 80°.
   5. Keep rockwool cubes moist by watering sparingly every couple of days or misting with a spray bottle when they start to dry out.
   6. Remove from humidity dome and place under lights as soon as seeds sprout.
   7. Cut the tops off the seed in each cube (if you planted 2 per cube) that isn’t the strongest or tallest. Do not pull them out as it may dislodge the healthier plantlet at the same time.
   8. Transplant when plantlets reach 2-3” in height.
8. To Propagate Cuttings
   1. Water the stock plant well the night before beginning the propagation process.
   2. Remove a 3-4” leaf stem cutting from the main stem of the plant, cutting it off as close to the main stem as possible without damaging the node.
   3. Dip cut end in rooting hormone.
   4. Plant the cutting in the rockwool cube making sure it doesn’t poke out the bottom of the cube.
   5. Fill a nursery tray part way full with perlite or vermiculite.
   6. Set rockwool cubes on top of growing media.
   7. Cover nursery tray with a humidity dome to lock in moisture.
   8. Maintain close to 80°.
   9. Crack humidity dome when roots begin to emerge, gradually increasing the day after.
   10. Remove the humidity dome a couple of days after roots first appear.
   11. Transplant when roots begin to poke out the bottom of the cubes.

Keep your Reservoir Full. 20 gallons of water will hold on to the heat much longer than 5 gallons will. By keeping your reservoir full the water stays warmer on those cold frosty nights (which your plants prefer). The Tower Garden FLEX has a 20-gallon reservoir, compared to a 13-gallon reservoir with the Tower Garden HOME. For this reason, we recommend your winter Tower Garden is a Tower Garden FLEX.
Use a Dolly. Have you ever stood barefoot on a concrete surface, or even a wooden deck, in the middle of a cold winter night? It’s pretty cold, isn’t it? If your Tower Garden Reservoir is placed directly on concrete or other similar surface, the cold transfers to the reservoir, and the water cools much quicker. By using a Dolly or a thick rubber mat under your Tower Garden Reservoir you allow air to flow underneath it and reduce the rate at which it cools.
Heat the water. Add a submersible heater and set it to the lowest temperature (usually 68) when temperatures are falling below approximately 50 degrees. If the heater is longer than the reservoir is deep, stick it to the side of the reservoir at an angle with the suction feet. This is one of the most important things to do to enable you to grow a Tower Garden all winter long!
Place your Tower in the sunniest location you have. The days are shorter and the sun is much less intense in the winter. Give your crops as much sun as possible and in return, they will grow much faster. Remember, 5 hours minimum for leafy greens, lettuce, and herbs and 8 or more hours for fruiting crops. Screen rooms are going to give you around 10-20%. That’s not something you need in the winter!
Add Tower Tonic at full strength. In the summer you reduce the amount of minerals you add (see the post here for more details.) Be sure you revert back to regular strength (20ml of A and 20ml of B for every gallon of water you add) when temperatures are below 85 degrees. Read this post if you want to learn how to measure the Total Dissolved Solids with a TDS Meter, however, it’s not necessary providing you add nutrients at the right dose and empty the reservoir every two months or so.
Bypass the timer or set your timer to run continuously through the cold nights. The exact hours will depend on your temperatures. If temps are below about 40 degrees bypass the timer, or set the timer to run continuously through these hours. Plug the pump straight into the wall or follow the instructions on your timer and ensure the time is set correctly on the timer before setting it to run the pump continuously for a few hours.
Cover your Tower Garden. A Frost cloth or frost bag can be used to cover your Tower Garden on frosty nights. It can be purchased online or at nursery stores and is pretty inexpensive. A small pop up greenhouse could be used to dramatically extend your growing season in many parts of the country (there is not much need for one in Florida). Check the specifications of the greenhouse to ensure it will stand up to your specific weather conditions and is the correct size for the number of Tower Gardens you have. You could also use a submersible heater and/or a small space heater when using a pop-up greenhouse. Beware of fire hazards though!
Use Grow Lights. Grow lights will allow you to grow year-round inside your house, garage, office or other indoor area where you have space. There are many different types of grow lights so you will need to research them to be sure they are suitable to grow what you would like to. Tower Garden LED Grow Lights are full-spectrum and will allow you to grow fruiting crops inside. You’ll just need to consider the size they will grow to and whether you will need to be the bee and pollinate them.
Select the Correct Crops. One of the biggest mistakes we see new Tower Gardeners make is simply selecting the wrong crops. While the Tower Garden does extend the growing season, you still have to select the right crops. There are a handful of crops that we just cannot trick into growing outside of their preferred season. You’ll be able to grow peas and strawberries in temperatures as low as 30 degrees Fahrenheit, but you’ll have to wait until it warms up to grow virtually every other fruiting crop. Lettuces, leafy greens, brassicas, and many herbs love the cool weather. These are the seedlings we offer that love the cool weather. If you are growing inside with grow lights, you will need to consider the size the crop will grow, whether it will need to be pollinated and whether you are willing to do the pollinating.

PH average 6.4

Planting Your Tower Garden
This section will tell you all about what plants should go where on your tower.
1. Bottom Row: On the bottom I have had the best success growing my vines. I send them away from the garden as soon as I can. I like to give my vines places to climb and stretch around the garden, this creates a “larger than life” tower garden effect.
2. Second Row: above the vines, I plant my large plants and my cruciferous greens. This is because these larger plants need space to grow. I have noticed that if the larger plants grow toward the bottom the roots do not interfere with everything growing in the garden. They also do not cast shadow on plants below them this way.
3. Third Row: Next I like to plant my Herbs, preferably in the mint family. This is because herbs are versatile. They don’t mind taking a trip up and around something in their way. They also like to “hug” the tower garden and do quite well in this position on the third row.
4. Top Row: On the top I plant all of the lettuce or fast growing plants that I plan to remove and re-harvest. This is because the lettuce grows so fast up here on top, that the roots never mingle with the lower layers. Therefore, you can remove these net cups easily and replace them a few times.

Starting Seeds
If they are large seeds like bean or squash seeds…1-2 seeds per cube will be fine.
If the seeds are smaller, feel free to use 3-5 seeds per cube.

Start pepper seeds (sweet and hot) in damp paper towel.

Guide is pdf and on file.

ALL ABOUT DIFFERENT TYPS OF HYDROPONIC GROWING

Hydroponics Hobby Center

Here are some tips for growing a tower garden in Arizona during the winter:
Location: Place the tower garden in a sunny location to give crops as much sun as possible.
Water temperature: Use a submersible heater to maintain the water temperature at a higher level, especially when temperatures fall below 50°F.
Insulation: Cover the tower garden with insulation to help crops last longer.
Tower tonic: Use full strength tower tonic when temperatures are below 85°F.
Airflow: Place a dolly or thick rubber mat under the reservoir to allow air to flow underneath and reduce cooling.
Move indoors: If possible, move the tower garden indoors during the winter.

Tower gardens can produce winter crops, but they don’t perform well in freezing conditions or temperatures above 90°F. Some tower farm owners only operate outdoors seasonally from spring to fall.

The best water temperature for hydroponics can vary depending on the specific plants you are growing and the stage of growth they are in. However, as a general guideline, most hydroponic systems maintain a water temperature between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. This range is considered ideal for many common hydroponic crops like lettuce, tomatoes, and herbs. Here are some factors to consider:
Hydroponic Plants That Prefer Warmer Water
Some hydroponic plants tend to thrive in warmer water temperatures, typically toward the upper end of the recommended range (between 70°F to 75°F). These plants include:
Tomatoes: Tomatoes are warm-season crops and generally perform well in hydroponic systems when the water temperature is in the upper range. Warmer water can encourage robust growth and fruit production.
Peppers: Like tomatoes, pepper plants prefer warmer conditions. Maintaining a water temperature in the 70-75°F range can help peppers grow well in hydroponic setups.
Cucumbers: Cucumber plants are also warm-season crops. They benefit from slightly warmer water to support healthy growth and fruit development.
Eggplants: Eggplants, or aubergines, are another warm-loving crop. They tend to do better when the water temperature is in the upper range of the recommended temperatures.
Squash: Various types of squash, such as zucchini and summer squash, prefer warmer water temperatures for optimal growth.
Basil: While many herbs can tolerate cooler water, basil tends to thrive in slightly warmer conditions, making it a suitable choice for hydroponic systems with elevated water temperatures.
Cilantro (Coriander): Cilantro is another herb that may benefit from warmer water temperatures, especially during the vegetative growth stage.
It’s important to note that while these plants may perform well in higher temperatures, they still require proper care, nutrient management, and attention to other environmental factors like light and humidity to achieve their full potential in hydroponic systems. Additionally, be mindful of the specific varieties or cultivars of these plants you are growing, as individual preferences may vary slightly. Always monitor and adjust the water temperature based on the specific needs of your plants and the recommendations of your chosen hydroponic system.
Hydroponic Plants That Prefer Cool Water Temperatures
Cooler water temperatures can help inhibit the growth of harmful pathogens and reduce the risk of root diseases. Warmer water temperatures can promote the proliferation of pathogens, potentially leading to root rot or other diseases that can stunt plant growth.
Certain hydroponic plants thrive in lower temperatures, generally within the lower end of the recommended range (between 65°F to 70°F). These plants are often referred to as cool-season crops, and they include:
Lettuce: Lettuce is one of the most popular hydroponic crops, and it prefers cooler water temperatures. Keeping the water between 65°F and 70°F helps prevent bolting (premature flowering) and promotes the growth of tender, crisp leaves.
Spinach: Spinach is another cool-season leafy green that performs well in hydroponic systems with cooler water.
Arugula: Arugula, with its peppery flavor, is well-suited for hydroponic cultivation in slightly cooler water.
Kale: Kale is a robust cool-season crop that can thrive in hydroponic setups with water temperatures on the cooler side.
Swiss Chard: Swiss chard is a versatile leafy green that can tolerate cooler water temperatures, making it suitable for hydroponic gardening.
Bok Choy: Bok choy, or Chinese cabbage, prefers cooler conditions and can be grown successfully in hydroponic systems with cooler water.
Cilantro (Coriander): While cilantro can tolerate slightly warmer water, it can also grow well in cooler conditions.
These cool-season crops are well-suited to hydroponic gardening because you have greater control over the growing environment, allowing you to maintain consistent and optimal conditions, including water temperature, for their growth. When growing these plants hydroponically, it’s important to monitor and adjust the water temperature as needed to ensure they remain in their preferred range for best results.
Vegetables that grow well in Hydroponics:
1. Lettuces
2. Tomatoes https://joybileefarm.com/hydroponic-tomatoes/
3. Radishes
4. Kale
5. Cucumbers
6. Spinaches
7. Beans https://igworks.com/blogs/growing-guides/growing-hydroponic-beans
Fruits
8. Strawberries https://www.simplegreenshydroponics.com/blog?tag=hydroponics
9 Blueberries
10. Peppers
Growing melons: Fruits https://benchmarkhydroponics.com.au/blog/hydroponic-fruit
11. Strawberries
12. Blueberries
13. Peppers
Lettuce in Hydroponics
Lettuce (and most other leafy greens) should be your first plant to try with a hydroponic system. These plants have a shallow root system that matches their short above-ground height. That means there’s no need to tie stakes or set guides for the plant. Instead, you just let them grow while regularly changing their nutrient solution. Eventually, they will look good enough to eat, and you can!
Grow time: About 30 days
Best pH: 6.0 to 7.0
Tip: Stagger plantings so you have a continuous supply of lunchtime lettuce!
Variety options: Romaine, Boston, Iceberg, Buttercrunch, Bibb
Spinach in Hydroponics
Spinach grows quickly in a hydroponic system, particularly when using the Nutrient Film Technique or other methods that keep the nutrient solution highly oxygenated. You’ll also use far less water than an in-the-ground garden. It’s easy to start these plants from seed and a week after sprouting, move them into your system.
Grow time: About 40 days
Best pH: 6.0 to 7.5
Tip: For sweeter spinach, keep your grow temperatures between 65 degrees F and 72 degrees F. The lower temperatures may slow grow time, though.
Variety options: Savoy, Bloomsdale, Smooth Leafed, Regiment, Catalina, Tyee, Red Cardinal
Strawberries in Hydroponics
The worst thing about strawberries is how seasonal they are. If you don’t get them locally when the crop is ready, you’re relying on trucked-in berries that begin deteriorating as soon as they’re picked. With hydroponics, you can have a ready-to-eat crop of strawberries all year long. Harvesting is super-convenient as well – no bending over! Strawberries seem to do best with an ebb and flow system, but deep water culture or nutrient film technique can do for a small crop.
Grow time: About 60 days
Best pH: 5.5 to 6.2
Tip: Don’t buy strawberry seeds, which won’t be berry-ready for years. Instead, you want to buy cold-stored runners that are already at that stage.
Variety options: Brighton, Chandler, Douglass, Red Gauntlet, Tioga
Bell Peppers in Hydroponics
Bell peppers are a slightly more advanced hydroponic plant. Don’t let them grow to their full height, instead, prune and pinch plants at about 8 inches to spur pepper growth. Deep water culture or ebb and flow systems are best for peppers.
Grow time: About 90 days
Best pH: 6.0 to 6.5
Tip: Plan to provide up to 18 hours of light for these plants each day, and raise your light rack as the plants grow, keeping plants about 6 inches from the lights.
Variety options: Ace, California Wonder, Vidi, Yolo Wonder
Herbs in Hydroponics
There are a wide variety of herbs that work wonderfully in hydroponic gardening. Studies have shown that hydroponic herbs are more flavorful and aromatic than those grown in the field. What herb do you want to grow? Basil, chives, cilantro, dill, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary, thyme, and watercress are all great options. Herb production is another great way to test out your new hydroponic system, and nearly every system style is suitable for a round of herbs as you learn the ropes!
Grow time: Varies by plant
Best pH: Varies by plant
Tip: Flush your growing medium about once a week to get rid of any extra nutrients that your plants haven’t (or won’t) absorb.
Medicinal herbs:
https://www.reiziger.com/15-medicinal-herbs-you-can-grow-hydroponically/
Flowering herbs: https://www.bootstrapfarmer.com/blogs/hydroponics/hydroponic-edible-flowers-how-to-grow-edible-flowers-without-soil
Regrow used produce
https://www.mygardenlife.com/recipes-edibles/the-garbage-garden

Flora Grow
Shake up each nutrient after each solution and rinse syringe.
Check ph after mixing solution. Under 6 is best. Couple dollops at a time of ph down and mix or shake gallon jug
2.5 each per gallon for seedlings
5m each per gallon for grow
Only refill water when 1/3 water left in passive Kratky container
One grower uses: Cal mag and Epson salts in the mix
for his greens and  seedlings use 1/4 tsp eahc per gal.
Flora Series: For reg. Kratky Method
1 Gallon of water, pH is between 5.9 – 6.5
1 Tsps. of Micro
1 Tsps. of Grow
1 Tsps. of Bloom
1 Tsps. of Cal Mag liquid
1/2 Tsps. of Epsom Sal -t½ tsp in a little warm water – stir and pour into mix

Masterblend:
1 Gallon of water, pH is between 5.9 – 6.5
2 Grams of Masterblend 4-18-38
2 Grams Calcium Nitrate
1 Gram of Empson Salt

How to use A & B:
Step 1: Fill bottles A and B with water and shake well to ensure the contents are thoroughly mixed.
Step 2: Utilize the bottle caps to measure, with scale marks from 1ml to 15ml. Mix 5ml of hydroponic nutrients from both bottles A and B into 1L of water. Use the table below to determine the correct mixture for your hydroponic growing system’s requirements.
Hydroponic Growing Nutrient Proportion
ater Nutrient
1.5L (Mini’s water tank) 7.5ML A + 7.5ML B
2L 10ML A + 10ML B
3L 15ML A + 15ML B
4L 20ML A + 20ML B
5.5L (Senior’s water tank) 27.5ML A + 27.5ML B
7.5L (Max’s water tank) 37.5ML A + 37.5 ML B

MASTERBLEND 4-18-38
Calcium Nitrate 15.5-0-0
Contains MasterBlend 4-18-38,
and Epsom Salt (Magnesium Sulfate)

All the recipes for using hydrogen peroxide indoors for you seed starts and transplants.

Food Grade 3% Hydrogen Peroxide

Initial Soil Drench for Sterilizing & Germination
Soil Drench: 4 parts water and 1 part hydrogen peroxide

Managing Molds and Fungi
Spray: 6 parts water and 1 part hydrogen peroxide
Soil Drench: (maintaining health) 5 parts water and 1 part H202

Fungus Gnat Infestation
Spray: 4 parts water and 1 part hydrogen peroxide
Soil Drench: 3 parts water and 1 part H202

Kratky Method

Peroxide for Kratky Method
10 ml peroxide per gallon water

https://www.youtube.com/hashtag/humblegrowthhydroponics

Finding the right amount of hydrogen peroxide for your hydroponic system is crucial. Too little might not help, and too much could harm your plants.

• Start small: Begin by adding a low dose of 3ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide solution per liter of water.
• Watch closely: After you add hydrogen peroxide, observe your plants for any changes in health or growth.
• Increase gradually: If there are no negative effects on the plants, slowly increase the dose while monitoring them.
• Follow a schedule: For every gallon of water in your system, add 2-3 teaspoons of the solution. Do this every four days.
• Adjust for size: Tailor the amount to fit the size of your hydroponics setup. Larger systems may require more hydrogen peroxide.
• Use food grade: Always choose food-grade hydrogen peroxide for your plants. It’s safer and more effective for gardening use.
• Be precise: Use a measuring tool to ensure you’re adding just the right quantity. Guessing can lead to over or under-dosing.

People often confuse the Black Swallowtail caterpillar with Monarch caterpillars, especially when they look the most similar. There are some main differences to look out for.

The Black Swallowtail caterpillars have thicker, green stripes and yellow, wavy “dots”. They also don’t have the long tentacles on their head and tail end like Monarch caterpillars do.

The most telltale sign is that Monarch will be eating on Milkweed while Eastern Swallowtails will be nibbling on plants of the Carrot family (dill, fennel, rue, Queen Anne’s lace, celery, parsley etc.)

Host Plants of the Eastern Black Swallowtail
Adult Eastern Black Swallowtails will lay eggs on plants in the Carrot family. You may find the caterpillars eating on these plants in great numbers but don’t be alarmed! There are several ways to keep the caterpillars happy while also saving some of the plant for yourself!

How to keep the caterpillars happy and not lose all of your plants or resort to using pesticides!
1. Plant extra dill or fennel so that there is enough for them and you to eat.
2. Pick the caterpillars off of the plant and put them into a butterfly enclosure with the host plant to watch them pupate and eclose into a beautiful butterfly.
3. Successional planting of dill/fennel/parsley etc. throughout the summer so there is always enough to go around.
Lifecycle of the Black Swallowtail
Similar to the Monarch butterfly: The female butterfly lays one yellow egg at a time on a host plant. After 4-9 days, a caterpillar (larva) hatches from the egg. Over 10-30 days, the caterpillar grows through 5 different stages (called instars) to a length of 2 inches.

https://growinginthegarden.com/arizona-vegetable-planting-guide-a-visual-guide-for-low-desert-vegetables-2/

From roughly October through May in Tucson, herbs that don’t tolerate high temperatures grow well. These include things like cilantro, parsley, dill, and caraway. When temperatures creep up, these herbs bolt, which means that they flower and then die. To keep these plants going next season, remove the winter herbs in May and save their seeds. Replace them with herbs that can tolerate the Tucson summer heat. Herbs that grow well in the heat include basil, lemon balm, lemon verbena, oregano, mint, and garlic chives. Mexican mint marigold—also referred to as Texas tarragon and winter tarragon—is a heat-loving version of tarragon that is well suited to Tucson’s summer climate.

Landscaping Herbs

Herbs that can grow year-round in Tucson are easily integrated into landscaping. A popular example of this is rosemary, which many people in the region use for groundcover in their landscaping. Germander (Teucrium chamaedrys) is another popular choice for this purpose, as is lavender.

If you opt for lavender, stay away from English varieties and look for French (photo at left) or Spanish lavender (lavender pink), which will be better suited to the climate in Tucson. Some summer herbs, such as lemon verbena and lemon grass, can be used for landscaping as well, if they are planted in protected areas and covered in the case of frost.

Arizona has two planting seasons—a cool season (September through mid-November) and a warm season (mid-February through March).

Cool-season annuals include cilantro (coriander), dill, German chamomile and garlic and; while basil, epazote and summer savory are warm-season annuals. Sep 21, 2021

You can grow a respectable herbal apothecary in pots. In fact, some of the most beneficial medicinal herbs will positively thrive in containers placed right on your porch or patio.

• • 
    Bee Balm:
    Grows best from seed or transplant.
  • Plant bee balm in Arizona: February – March
    Harvest leaves anytime.Good to know: Needs frequent water and afternoon shade. Attracts beneficial insects and pollinators. Considered a perennial flower, but often grown as an annual in the low desert of Arizona. Plant near tomatoes to improve flavor and growth.

    Anise:

    Grows best from seed
    Plant in  February – April and October – November
    Harvest seeds by clipping entire head and storing in paper bag until dry.
    Annual. Anise grows about 2 feet tall.

    Bay:

  • Grows best from cutting or transplant

Plant bay in Late February – April

Harvest dark leaves anytime. Use within 3-4 months for best flavor. Perennial. New plantings are frost-tender.

Borage:
grows best from seed

When to plant : October – January

Harvest young stems for best flavor. Pick flowers and use fresh, frozen, or dried.

Cool-season annual. Self-seeds readily. Attracts pollinators. Plant with squash, strawberries, and tomatoes.

Calendula:

Grows best from seed or transplant

When to plant calendula in Arizona: Late September – November

Harvest flowers regularly when young and fresh.

Good to know: Cool-season annual. Edible, and medicinal uses. Reseeds easily. Early bloomer. Often grown as a trap crop for aphids. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms.

Chamomile:

Grows best from seed or transplant; reseeds readily

Plant chamomile in Arizona: October – March

Harvest chamomile when the petals are flat or beginning to fall back from bud. Air-dry or dry in a dehydrator.

Cool-season annual. Grows best in cooler weather. Improves the flavor of cabbage and onions.

Chives:

Grows best from seed or division

When to plant chives in Arizona: October – April

Harvest by cutting leaves at the base.

Low-growing perennial; beautiful when flowering. Divide plants in the fall or early spring. Improves the growth and flavor of carrots.

Dill:

Grows best from seed; handle transplants carefully; reseeds readily

When to plant dil in Arizona: October – January

Use leaves fresh or dried. Let seed ripen on plant before harvesting. Bouquet dill has large seed heads. Fern-leaf dill has large plants for using fresh leaves.

Cool-season annual. Attracts swallowtail caterpillars. Trap crop for aphids; can attract ladybugs.

Ginger:

Grows best from rhizomes

When to plant ginger in Arizona: March

Harvest ginger about 10 months after planting by carefully digging out rhizomes.

Ginger needs a long warm growing season to grow well. Provide shade to protect leaves from sunburn. Harvest when leaves turn yellow and die back.

Lemon Grass:

• Grows best from division or transplant
• When to plant lemon grass in Arizona: February – April
• Harvest the fresh leaves and stems of single stalks as needed.
• Perennial. Grows well year-round in the low desert of Arizona.

• Nasturtium:

  Grows best from seedWhen to plant nasturtiums in Arizona: October – JanuaryHarvest leaves and flowers just before using. Harvest seed pods just before they turn from green to brown. Cool-season annual. Overly rich soil results in fewer blooms. Reseeds readily.

• Rosemary:

  Grows best from cutting or transplant.

• When to plant rosemary in Arizona: October – January
• Harvest stems as needed anytime. Best flavor is just before flowers appear. Drought-tolerant perennial. Takes full sun but needs well-drained soil. Cutting back by more than 1/3 can shock plant. Grows up to 6 feet tall. Good companion plant to cabbage, beans, carrots, and sage. Deters cabbage moths, bean beetles, and carrot flies.

Turmeric:

Grows from rhizomes

• When to plant turmeric in Arizona: March
• Harvest turmeric about 10 months after planting by carefully digging out rhizomes.
•  Prefers shade when grown in Arizona. Keep an eye on moisture levels. Can rot if too wet, but needs regular water and feeding to grow well.

What to Consider When Choosing the Best Soil for Herbs
Growing herbs, either in a garden patch or on a sunny windowsill, is a rewarding experience that’s even more gratifying when the fresh, tasty results jazz up a dinner recipe. Before planting and choosing the best soil for plants, consider where the garden will be located and the fertilizer, pH level, nutrients, and water needs of the desired herbs.
Location
Herbs that grow in an outdoor garden have different requirements than indoor or container plants. For outdoor success, opt for garden soil, which is formulated for in-ground plants. Garden soil, which is heavy and dense, can become too compacted in a container, reducing its ability to drain and negatively impacting roots.
For indoor and container gardens, potting soil or potting mix is preferable. Though these terms are often used interchangeably, they are technically different products. Potting soil, as the name implies, contains soil (either partially or completely). Potting mix, however, does not contain any actual soil and instead consists of a range of natural ingredients to create a light and well-draining texture. Potting mix tends to be the best choice for container herb gardening because, in addition to draining well, it is sterile and often includes added nutrients.
Fertilizer and Other Ingredients
Soils and potting mixes are scientifically formulated to include ingredients that can help plants thrive. Fertilizer can be chemical or organic material that adds nutrients, and while exact fertilizing needs depend on the particular plant and growing conditions, most herbs can benefit from a blend of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. The rule of thumb is to only fertilize as much as needed; overdoing it can cause some herbs to grow too fast, which risks losing flavor.
For outdoor herbs, a soil test can determine what nutrients may be lacking so the gardener can fertilize accordingly. Container herbs may require more frequent fertilizing because pots hold small amounts of growing medium, and plants can use up nutrients as water leaches them away. Using a potting mix with fertilizing ingredients, then adding a fertilizer later (as needed), can help optimize plant health.
Potting mixes, which are soilless, contain various ingredients—such as coconut coir, peat moss, and perlite—to create and maintain their fluffy, well-draining texture. Garden soil and some potting soils often contain organic ingredients like compost and manure to boost soil health.

Herbs like mint and oregano are voracious growers and get down right aggressive (even invasion) in a garden. To keep the rest of your garden plot safe, consider growing these herbs in pots and burying them in the ground. The added measure of control a pot puts on the roots of these herbs can keep them from moving in to the rest of your garden and prompting taking over. Of course the surest way to protect your garden from this threat is to grow them in pots grown above ground.

Potting soil or topsoil, compost, and sand
A sandy-loam is the best soil for growing the largest range of herbs as it is rarely waterlogged in winter, is dry in summer and it is naturally high in nutrients. Sandy soils are light, dry, warm, low in nutrients and often acidic. This soil feels rough and gritty when handled and are easy to cultivate and work.
pH Level
While most herbs prefer slightly acidic to neutral soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0, some common species deviate slightly from this scale. Rosemary, for example, prefers a pH between 5.0 and 6.0. Use a soil pH-testing kit to determine if pH-adjusting amendments, like limestone or sulfur, should be added to the herb garden.
Nutrients
Necessary nutrients may be added to growing mediums to help nourish plants. High-quality potting mixes typically contain important nutrients, which can be organic or nonorganic (chemical) in origin, to help with plant health.
Many companies list nutrients on the product label, displaying the soil’s nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium content as a ratio of percentages. These nutrients usually release slowly to last for a few weeks to a few months before additional fertilizer is necessary.
Water
While herbs should be watered often enough to keep the soil moist, overwatering will likely result in soggy roots, which can lead to rotting. To prevent overwatering, a well-draining soil is important for herb gardens, especially for container-grown plants.
Different herbs have different water needs. Mint and parsley, for example, do well in fairly moist soil, while rosemary and sage prefer dryer soil. Pro tip: Bunch herbs with similar watering needs close together to help ensure proper watering. Using a moisture meter is a good way to help ensure proper watering. These inexpensive tools are stuck into soil to measure the moisture level at the root level.
Drainage
Precise drainage is important to growing herbs successfully. Too little drainage and the roots can drown, while too much drainage will cause water to flow through too quickly for the roots to absorb. A soil with good drainage allows for adequate water and airflow so both water and oxygen can reach plant roots. Many of the most popular herbs (like basil, bay leaf, cilantro, and lavender) are native to the Mediterranean, so they grow best in soil with good drainage, similar to soils found in that region.

Planting Outdoors
Aloe vera is hardy in zones 10 through 12 and can be planted outdoors in warm climates. If growing outdoors, make sure that your soil is well-draining, says Ryan McEnaney, garden designer and author of Field Guide to Outside Style: Design and Plant Your Perfect Outdoor Space.

Dig a hole twice as wide and just as deep as the pot the plant is in.
Place the plant in the ground, making sure the crown is even with existing soil.
Backfill the hole with soil so the roots are covered.
Water the plant thoroughly, letting it drain completely before re-watering.

Planting in Containers
Aloe vera is a low-maintenance houseplant you can grow indoors year-round. If you’re planting aloe in a pot, I recommend a porous terracotta pot, which allows water to more easily evaporate. Choose a well-draining soil, preferably one marked for cactus or other arid plants.

Fill a container most of the way with soil.
Place the plant in the center of the pot.
Backfill with soil to cover the roots.
Water the plant, making sure it fully drains through and doesn’t leave any standing water.

How to Care for Aloe Vera

The key to growing healthy aloe vera in your garden is making sure it is in the right environment.

Soil: Mimic aloe vera’s native environment with well-draining sandy or rocky soil. “For indoor plants, a cactus or succulent soil is a great option,” says McEnaney. “If you’re planting outdoors, especially for year-round growing, make sure to have lots of great drainage so water doesn’t sit at the roots.”

Water: Overwatering your aloe vera can lead to root rot. Whether you’re growing the plant indoors or outdoors, it’s important to test for dryness by checking the soil moisture with your finger. “Water aloe vera when the soil is bone dry,” says Chris Satch, plant doctor at Horti.

Light: Aloe vera plants do best with a lot of sun. If your aloe vera is planted outside, six to eight hours of full sun is best. “Interestingly, while they prefer full sun outdoors, they just need bright indirect light indoors,” says McEnaney. “The amplification of the sun’s rays through windows can burn the leaves, so make sure they’re not sitting in full sun all day inside.”

Temperature: Aloe vera needs warmer temperatures and is not adaptable for frosts or ongoing cold temperatures. “Ideally, aloe vera should be kept between 55 degrees Fahrenheit and 85 degrees Fahrenheit,” says McEnaney. If growing it in a climate with cold seasons, you can keep the plant outdoors during summer then bring it inside when temperatures drop. If you move from indoors to outdoors for the summer, be sure to transition it slowly over the course of a week. “If nighttime temperatures dip below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, bring the aloe inside overnight,” says McEnaney.

Fertilizer: Aloe vera needs very little to no fertilizer. “If you’re growing the plant indoors, you could give it some succulent fertilizer in early spring,” says McEnaney. “But if your plant is outdoors, no fertilizer is needed.”

It can be used during initial planting starting or direct transplanting, or to feed on a regular basis as plants grow.

TruBiotic® Inside. Living Fertilizer. TruBiotic® is alive with probiotic beneficial soil microbes and mycorrhizae. It is infused with a broad spectrum biological inoculant that results in greater adaptability and viability success. TruBiotic® renews and restarts tired soils. It starts new soils with life purely and naturally

DIRECTIONS FOR USE:
When potting plants, mix 1 tablespoon to each quart of potting medium.

For new plantings, add 2 cups per 5 gallons of mix that will be added to the planting hole.

After planting, add another 2 cups around the plant and mix into the soil. Apply every other month throughout the growing season.

For established plants, work 0.5-2 cups into the soil within the drip line. Can also be mixed with water for foliar feeding or deep root feeding. See product label for specific instructions.

Ingredients: Cottonseed meal, fish bone meal, alfalfa meal, feather meal, potassium sulfate, kelp meal, seaweed extract and seven strains of Pro-Biotic beneficial soil microbes, PLUS Ecto and Endo Mycorrhizae.

The soil pH value is a measure of soil acidity or alkalinity. Soil pH directly affects nutrient availability. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14, with 7 as neutral. Numbers less than 7 indicate acidity while numbers greater than 7 indicate alkalinity.
The pH value of soil is one of a number of environmental conditions that affects the quality of plant growth. The soil pH value directly affects nutrient availability. Plants thrive best in different soil pH ranges.
Azaleas, rhododendrons, blueberries and conifers thrive best in acid soils (pH 5.0 to 5.5).
Figs prefer slightly acidic soil (pH 5.5-6.5
Vegetables, grasses and most ornamentals do best in slightly acidic soils (pH 5.8 to 6.5). Soil pH values above or below these ranges may result in less vigorous growth and nutrient deficiencies.
Nutrients for healthy plant growth are divided into three categories: primary, secondary and micronutrients. Nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) are primary nutrients which are needed in fairly large quantities compared to the other plant nutrients. Calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg) and sulfur (S) are secondary nutrients which are required by the plant in lesser quantities but are no less essential for good plant growth than the primary nutrients. Zinc (Zn) and manganese (Mn) are micronutrients, which are required by the plant in very small amounts. Most secondary and micronutrient deficiencies are easily corrected by keeping the soil at the optimum pH value.
The major impact that extremes in pH have on plant growth is related to the availability of plant nutrients or the soil concentration of plant-toxic minerals.
In highly acid soils, aluminum and manganese can become https://www.artstation.com/marketplace/library
more available and more toxic to the plant. Also at low pH values, calcium, phosphorus and magnesium are less available to the plant. At pH values of 6.5 and above, phosphorus and most of the micronutrients become less available.
Factors Affecting Soil pH
The pH value of a soil is influenced by the kinds of parent materials from which the soil was formed. Soils developed from basic rocks generally have higher pH values than those formed from acid rocks.
Rainfall also affects soil pH. Water passing through the soil leaches basic nutrients such as calcium and magnesium from the soil. They are replaced by acidic elements such as aluminum and iron. For this reason, soils formed under high rainfall conditions are more acidic than those formed under arid (dry) conditions.
Application of fertilizers containing ammonium or urea speeds up the rate at which acidity develops. The decomposition of organic matter also adds to soil acidity.
Increasing the Soil pH
To make soils less acidic, the common practice is to apply a material that contains some form of lime. Ground agricultural limestone is most frequently used. The finer the limestone particles, the more rapidly it becomes effective. Different soils will require a different amount of lime to adjust the soil pH value. The texture of the soil, organic matter content and the plants to be grown are all factors to consider in adjusting the pH value. For example, soils low in clay require less lime than soils high in clay to make the same pH change.
Selecting a Liming Material: Homeowners can choose from four types of ground limestone products: pulverized, granular, pelletized and hydrated. Pulverized lime is finely ground. Granular and pelletized lime are less likely to clog when spread with a fertilizer spreader over turf areas. The finer the grind of the limestone the faster it will change the soil pH value. Hydrated lime should be used with caution since it has a greater ability to neutralize soil acidity than regular limestone.
Time of Application & Lime Placement: Lime needs should be determined by a soil test. For more information on soil testing, refer to HGIC 1652, Soil Testing. Soil samples should be taken in the fall for the succeeding year’s garden. If test results indicate a need for limestone, it can be applied in the fall or winter months. Generally, for best results, limestone should be applied two to three months prior to planting to allow time for it to neutralize the acidity.
The most important factor determining the effectiveness of lime is placement. Maximum contact of lime with the soil is essential. Most liming materials are only slightly soluble in water, so incorporation in the soil is a must for lime reaction. Even when properly mixed with the soil, lime will have little effect on pH if the soil is dry. Moisture is essential for the lime-soil reaction to occur. In the case of lawns, it can only be surface applied and watered into the soil.
Wood Ashes: Wood ashes can be used to raise the soil pH. They contain fairly high amounts of potassium & calcium, and small amounts of phosphate, boron and other elements. They are not as effective as limestone but with repeated use, they can drastically raise the pH value of a soil, especially if the soil is sandy in texture. Ashes should not come in contact with germinating seedlings or plant roots as they may cause damage. Spread a thin layer during the winter and incorporate into the soil in the spring. Check the soil pH annually especially if you use wood ashes. Avoid using large amounts of wood ashes because excessively high pH values and subsequent nutrient deficiencies may result. Coal ashes do not have any lime value and may actually be acidic dependent on the source.
Decreasing the Soil pH
Many ornamental plants and some fruit plants such as blueberries require slightly to strongly acid soil. These species develop iron chlorosis when grown in soils in the alkaline range. Iron chlorosis is often confused with nitrogen deficiency because the symptoms (a definite yellowing of the leaves) are similar. Iron chlorosis can be corrected by reducing the soil pH value.
Two materials commonly used for lowering the soil pH are aluminum sulfate and sulfur. These can be found at a garden supply center. Aluminum sulfate will change the soil pH instantly because the aluminum produces the acidity as soon as it dissolves in the soil. Sulfur, however, requires some time for the conversion to sulfuric acid with the aid of soil bacteria. The conversion rate of the sulfur is dependent on the fineness of the sulfur, the amount of soil moisture, soil temperature and the presence of the bacteria. Depending on these factors, the conversion rate of sulfur may be very slow and take several months if the conditions are not ideal. For this reason, most people use the aluminum sulfate.
Both materials should be worked into the soil after application to be most effective. If these materials are in contact with plant leaves as when applied to a lawn, they should be washed off the leaves immediately after application or a damaging leaf burn may result. Take extreme care not to over-apply the aluminum sulfate or the sulfur.
You can use the following tables to calculate the application rates for both the aluminum sulfate and the sulfur. The rates are in pounds per 10 square feet for a loamy soil. Reduce the rate by one-third for sandy soils and increase by one-half for clays.
Pounds of Aluminum Sulfate per 10 square feet to Lower the pH to the Recommended Level

Present pH Desired pH
6.5 6.0 5.5 5.0 4.5
8.0 1.8 2.4 3.3 4.2 4.8
7.5 1.2 2.1 2.7 3.6 4.2
7.0 0.6 1.2 2.1 3.0 3.6
6.5 0.6 1.5 2.4 2.7
6.0 0.6 1.5 2.1
Pounds of Sulfur per10 square feet to Lower the Soil pH to the Recommended Level

Present pH Desired pH
6.5 6.0 5.5 5.0 4.5
8.0 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7
7.5 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6
7.0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5
6.5 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4
6.0 0.1 0.2 0.3

Neem oil is a natural remedy that can be used as a soil drench to control pests and diseases on plants. The plant absorbs the neem oil through its roots, which helps protect it from pests and fungus. Water plants with neem oil by adding it to your watering can or using it as a soil drench:

Soil drench: Here are some tips for using neem oil for soil drenching.1–2 tablespoons per gallon of water, or 1–2 teaspoons per quart of water. You can also add a small amount of dish soap to help distribute the oil in the water.
Test on a small area: Before treating the entire plant, apply the mixture to a small test area.
Use warm water: Warm water is less likely to solidify the soil, but it’s still important to avoid water that’s too hot, which plants may not like.
Shake the bottle: Shake the bottle often while applying to keep the oil distributed throughout the mixture.
Apply regularly: For prevention, apply every 3 weeks, or every week for infestations.
Refrigerate: Remaining undiluted neem oil can be refrigerated for up to a year to slow its degradation.
Neem oil can control many types of pests, including ants, beetles, caterpillars, crickets, earwigs, grasshoppers, lacebugs, mealybugs, mites, and more. sticide, killing insects that feed on the plant’s foliage.
Foliar spray
Mist the entire plant with neem oil, making sure to cover the tops and undersides of the leaves and stems. This method is effective against pests and diseases.
Here are some tips for using neem oil:
When to use
Use neem oil on a dry, windless day when temperatures are at least 40°F. Avoid spraying if a freeze is expected.
Apply neem oil in the evening to avoid potential leaf burn, says Bunting.
What type of neem oil to use
For young insects, use cold-pressed neem oil. For adult insects and eggs, use clarified hydrophobic extract of neem oil.
How often to use
Reapply the mixture as needed, following the label directions.
Safety
Wear gloves and a mask to protect your skin and lungs, as some people are sensitive to direct contact with neem oil.
Some sensitive plants that shouldn’t be treated with neem oil, for example, you should never use it on young or dehydrated plants.
Additionally, avoid using neem oil on peppers, beans, or peas, as well as on herbs, including basil, dill, cilantro, oregano, parsley, and thyme. “Also avoid leafy crops such as arugula, lettuce and spinach and avoid the cabbage family, including, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, and kale,” says Bunting.