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Bee Sting Relief

When it comes to mild bee stings, wasp stings, or yellow jacket stings, there are a few simple things I do to address the sting — one of which includes a common herb that’s probably growing near you…

Now, for most of us, bee stings aren’t a big deal. However, for some they are fatal. Seek IMMEDIATE medical attention if the person’s tongue swells, if the person has difficulty breathing, you observe a sudden rash, the person complains of nausea or blurred vision, or if the person has had a severe reaction to a previous sting. If a person is allergic, make sure you check to see if they have a special “pen” that injects epinephrine. It helps dilate their airways.

Basically you have 3 things to do for most people when they get a sting…

Extract the wasp or bee stinger
Clean the wound
Find relief

The plant is plantain (Plantago major or broadleaf plantain, and Plantago lanceolata or narrowleaf plantain). This is a common “weed” found anywhere where soil has been disturbed. You’ll recognize it growing in the cracks of your neighborhood sidewalks. (Just remember to gather from a place that is not sprayed or frequently walked or peed on.)

Plantain is a common herb that grows in lawns, along pathways, and areas with disturbed soil.

Plantain is well known for its ability to “draw.” That may come from its ability to draw up minerals to the soil in disturbed soil. Well, it also draws things like dirts, stingers, insect venom, and infectious materials — perfect for a bee sting remedy. A plantain poultice can also soothe other types of bug bites too, like itchy mosquito bites.

It’s an herb that you can access simply by chewing it up and placing it on a minor wound or sting. This is called a spit poultice. The laying on of leaves is very powerful remedy. And, it’s one you can easily share with anyone: a friendly plant that is always around to help us in need when we’re engaged in outdoor activities and a great bee sting remedy.

Hydrogen Peroxide for seedlings

All the recipes for using hydrogen peroxide indoors for you seed starts and transplants.

Food Grade 3% Hydrogen Peroxide

Initial Soil Drench for Sterilizing & Germination
Soil Drench: 4 parts water and 1 part hydrogen peroxide

Managing Molds and Fungi
Spray: 6 parts water and 1 part hydrogen peroxide
Soil Drench: (maintaining health) 5 parts water and 1 part H202

Fungus Gnat Infestation
Spray: 4 parts water and 1 part hydrogen peroxide
Soil Drench: 3 parts water and 1 part H202

Kratky Method

Peroxide for Kratky Method
10 ml peroxide per gallon water

https://www.youtube.com/hashtag/humblegrowthhydroponics

Finding the right amount of hydrogen peroxide for your hydroponic system is crucial. Too little might not help, and too much could harm your plants.

Start small: Begin by adding a low dose of 3ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide solution per liter of water.
Watch closely: After you add hydrogen peroxide, observe your plants for any changes in health or growth.
Increase gradually: If there are no negative effects on the plants, slowly increase the dose while monitoring them.
Follow a schedule: For every gallon of water in your system, add 2-3 teaspoons of the solution. Do this every four days.
Adjust for size: Tailor the amount to fit the size of your hydroponics setup. Larger systems may require more hydrogen peroxide.
Use food grade: Always choose food-grade hydrogen peroxide for your plants. It’s safer and more effective for gardening use.
Be precise: Use a measuring tool to ensure you’re adding just the right quantity. Guessing can lead to over or under-dosing.

Home made bug spray

Recipe for bug spray

•1 cup water
•1/3 cup witch Hazel
•30-50 drops lemon grass essential oil

Shake well before each use.
Or
Homemade Mosquito Repellent {Just 3 Ingredients}

2oz water or distilled water
2oz Apple Cider Vinegar or Witch Hazel (I used Witch Hazel)
20-55 drops of Bug Off Oil (Plant Therapy Nature Shield Essential Oil Blend) depending on the level of protection you need

You might consider 20 drops for children or to spray clothing and furniture and stuff and up to 55 drops if you are going to a heavily infested area.
And one important note- we all know normal bug spray can smell horrible. I find this spray much less offensive- it does have Citronella but I find the scent to be very mild.

Mennonite Egg Noodles, Shelf Stable Pasta.

Mix with blender or whisk
12egg yolks6 whole eggs
3/4cup water
1 T.oil (I use melted tallow)
1 tsp. salt
Add:6-7 cups all-purpose flour
Mix by hand like bread dough until dough is like a soft playdough. If it’s too dry add more water, if it’s too sticky, add more flour. Wrap dough in plastic wrap and allow to rest on counter for 2-3 hours for gluten to develop. Alternately, refrigerate the dough for up to 12 hours and then allow to come to room temp on counter for a few hours. Cut off golf ball size pieces of dough and cover them in flour by dropping them into a dish of flour. Smash the piece flat with your palms and then put them through your pasta machine on the thickest setting, then on a thinner setting. On my pasta machine I use setting three for the final dough sheets. Allow the pasta sheets to dry for1 to 2hours and then run them through the cutter. Alternately, Iron the dough sheets until they are partially dry before running through the cutters. Place cut pasta on clean surface (I use bed sheets for easy clean up)to dry for 2-3 days. When dry, place in tightly closed containers and store in a cool dry place (or store in freezer)*How to video on our YouTube channel: Homesteading with the Zimmerman

Water Bath Canning

Foods that are high in acid and have a pH of 4.6 or lower can be safely canned using a water bath canner, including:
Fruits: Most fruits, including apples, apricots, berries, cherries, cranberries, peaches, pears, plums, and rhubarb
Fruit juices: Fruit juices from high-acid fruits
Jams and jellies: Jams, jellies, and marmalades
Pickles: Pickles and pickled beets
Salsas: Salsas made with vinegar, lemon juice, or lime juice
Tomatoes: Most tomatoes, but some may need to be acidified with lemon juice, vinegar, or citric acid to reach a pH of 4.6 or lower
Foods that are not safe for canning: include butter, milk, cheese, cream, yogurt, eggs, tofu, soy, and any recipes that use these ingredients.

The Water Bath Canning Process—You Can Do It!
1. Fill water bath canner at least half-full with water. Cover and maintain a simmer (180°F) until canning jars are filled and placed in canner.
2. Check canning lids, jars, and bands for proper functioning. Jars with nicks, cracks, uneven rims, or sharp edges may prevent mason jar sealing or cause jar breakage. The underside of lids should not have scratches or uneven or incomplete sealing compound as this may prevent sealing. Bands should fit on all jars for canning. Wash all in hot, soapy water and dry well.
3. Preheat your Ball® canning jars in hot (180°F) water. Keeping jars hot prevents them from breaking when filled with hot food. Leave lids and bands at room temperature for easy handling (see tip at bottom).
TIP: It is not necessary to purchase special cookware for water bath canning. A large, deep saucepot equipped with a lid and a rack works well. As long as it is large enough to fully immerse the jars in canning water by 1-2 inches—and allow the water to boil rapidly when covered—the pot is adequate. If you don’t have a rack designed for home preserving, use a cake cooling rack or extra bands tied together to cover the bottom of the pot.
4. Prepare the desired tested high-acid, preserving canning recipe. Browse our online recipe collection, The Ball Blue Book, or one of our other recipe books for ideas!
TIP: For the simplest recipes, use Ball® Food Products (recipes are included on packaging)!
Pickle mixes: Special spice blends for crunchier pickles. Available in Bread & Butter and Kosher Dill varieties.
Fiesta Salsa Mix: Add tomatoes and make it mild, medium, or hot.
RealFruit Pectins: For making homemade jams and jellies. Available in Classic, Liquid, Low or No-Sugar Needed and Instant No-Cook varieties.
5. Use a Jar Lifter to remove the pre-heated jar. Fill canning jar one at a time with prepared food using a Jar Funnel, leaving headspace recommended in recipe. Remove air bubbles, if stated in the recipe, by sliding the Bubble Remover & Headspace Tool or rubber spatula between the jar and food to release trapped air. Repeat around jar 2-3 times. For successful sealing, you need to leave the correct amount of space between the food and the rim of the jar.
6. Wipe the rim and threads of the jar using a clean, damp cloth to remove any food residue. Center lid on the jar, allowing sealing compound to contact the jar rim. Apply band and adjust until fit is fingertip-tight. Place jar in canner. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until all jars are filled. Ensure water covers jars by 1-2 inches.
7. Place lid on water bath canner and bring water to a rolling boil. Begin processing time.
8. Process in the boiling water for the time indicated in tested preserving recipe. When complete, shut off heat and remove the lid. Allow jars to rest in canner for 5 minutes to be acclimated to the outside temperature.
9. Move jars from canner and set upright on a towel. This will prevent jar breakage that can occur from temperature differences. Leave jars undisturbed for 12 to 24 hours. DO NOT tighten bands as this may interfere with the jar sealing process.
10. Inspect lids for seals. There should be no flex when center is pressed. Remove the bands and attempt to lift lids off with your fingertips. Properly sealed lids will remain attached. If a lid fails to seal within 24 hours, immediately refrigerate the product. Clean canning jars and lids, label and store in a cool, dry, dark place for up to for up 18 months when using SureTight Lids according to our instructions for Food Preservation.
TIP: Preheating Ball® lids is not advised. The sealing compound used for our home canning lids performs better at room temperature than it does pre-heated in simmering water (180°F). Simply wash lids in hot, soapy water, dry, and set aside until needed. Preheating can lead to less vacuum being achieved during water bath canning, and to buckle failures during pressure canning.

Farmer Cheese Pie

Yields: 2 pies

Ingredients:
2 homemade pie crust, rolled out to a circle, 10-inches in diameter, 1/8-inch in thickness
Or
2 Marie Callender’s Pastry Pie Shell, store-bought ready-made frozen pie crust shell, pan included.
2 (7.5-ounce) bars of Farmer cheese, room temperature
3 1/2 cups powdered sugar
1 teaspoon of Kosher salt
5 large eggs, room temperature
2 tablespoons pure vanilla extract
zest of 1 lemon
1 1/2 cups of heavy cream
all-purpose flour

Note: Transfer the store-bought ready-made pie shell to the refrigerator the day before you plan to blind bake (pre-bake) the pie crust.

Preheat oven to 375-degrees F.

Directions For Partial Blind Baking:
After allowing the pies shells to rest n the refrigerator for 1 hour, place a piece of parchment paper in the bottom of the pie crust, making sure to make the parchment flush with the crust. Add dried beans (or pie weights) to both pie shells. Push the beans towards the edges of both pies. Place on a rimmed baking sheet and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the crimped edges are set but not browned.

Remove the pie shells from the oven. Next, carefully remove the parchment paper with the dried beans.

Note: DO NOT remove the silicone cover and or aluminum foil covering the edges while the pies are cooling.

Reduce oven temperature to 350-degrees F.

Directions For the Filling:
Using an electric mixer on low speed, mix the farmer cheese and powdered sugar together. Add the 5 eggs, one at a time, until they’re all combined. Add vanilla extract, Kosher salt, lemon zest, and heavy cream.
Evenly distribute the pie filling into each pie.

Place the pie’s, on a rimmed baking sheet, on the center rack and bake for another 35 to 40 minutes.

After the pie comes out of the oven, remove the silicone cover, and let cool for 30 minutes on a cooling rack. Dust the pies with some powdered sugar. Farmer Cheese Pie is delicious at room temperature or chilled. Refrigerate the pies to store them.

Note: Times may vary depending on whether you’re baking in a glass or some type of metal pan. These vessels can affect the outcome of the pie.

*Dock: Pricking holes in the rolled-out pie dough allow the steam to escape while it’s baking. Without this, the steam would puff up in bubbles and pockets throughout the crust.
*Partial Blind Baking: Sometimes called pre-baking, is the process of baking a pie crust or other pastry without the filling.
*Fully Blind Baking: First, follow the steps above, in the section marked, directions for partial blind baking.
Next, cover the crimped edges, of the pie, with either a silicone cover or aluminum foil to prevent the edges from burning. Bake for an additional 15 to 20 minutes, or until the bottom crust is browned and cooked through. Fully Blind baking a pie crust is necessary when it will be filled with an unbaked filling (such as pudding or cream pies in which case the crust must be fully baked. Cool before filling.

Note: For best results, use the frozen pie dough or frozen pie crusts within 3 months. You can also refrigerate unbaked pie dough or unbaked pie crust for up to 3 days. Keep tightly covered with aluminum foil or plastic wrap.

Good Sandwich Bread Farmers Table

Yields 2 loaves
Amanda Paladini- Welcome Grove Homestead, shared by Jess Sowards – The Farmer’s Table

Ingredients
6 1/2 to 8 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 1/2 tablespoons instant yeast
1/4 cup sugar or honey
2 3/4 cups very warm water
1/4 cup neutral-flavored oil
Directions
In the bowl of an electric stand mixer fitted with the dough hook (or in a large bowl, if making the dough by hand), combine THREE cups of the flour, salt, yeast and sugar.
Add the water and oil and mix.
Let the batter rest for 10 minutes. The yeast should be bubbly.
With the mixer running (or stirring by hand). gradually add another 3 to 4 cups of flour (I’ve had to add up to 5), until the dough comes together in a cohesive ball that clears the bottom and sides of the bowl.
Knead for about 2-4 minutes until the dough is smooth and supple.
Lightly grease a large bowl. Transfer the dough to the prepared bowl, cover with greased plastic wrap or a light kitchen towel, and let rise until doubled, about an hour or so, depending on the warmth of your kitchen.
Lightly punch down the dough and divide it into two equal pieces
Grease two 8 1/2-inch by 4 1/2-inch bread pans.
Press each piece of dough into a thick rectangle about 8-inches long; roll it up, pressing on the seams, and pinching the final seam together.
Place the dough loaves into the prepared pans.
Cover with lightly greased plastic wrap or thin kitchen towels and let rise until doubled and the dough has risen about 1-inch above the top rim of the pan, about an hour or so, depending on the warmth of your kitchen.
While the dough rises, preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
Bake the bread for 30-32 minutes until golden and baked through.
Remove from the oven and turn the bread out onto a wire rack. Immediately brush the tops of the loaves with melted butter (or use a stick of butter, peeling the paper back and rubbing it on the top of the hot bread).
Let the bread cool completely.
The bread can be stored at room temperature, covered in a bread bag, for a couple days, or frozen for up to a month or so.

Simple Southern Biscuits Farmers Table

by Jess Sowards- The Farmer’s Table

8 Biscuits (fills on 12 inch cast iron pan)

Ingredients
2 ½ C. All-Purpose Flour
2 Tablespoons Baking Powder
1 teaspoon salt
½ C. (1 Stick) Butter, cubed and cold
1 C. + 2T. Buttermilk (OR 1 C. + 1T. milk with 1T lemon juice added)
2 T. Butter, melted, to pour over top before baking
Directions
Preheat oven to 425°. Grease pan (I use a 12 inch cast iron pan)

Mix dry ingredients (flour, baking powder and salt) in medium mixing bowl.

Cut butter into dry mix until crumbly.

Mix buttermilk into crumbly mixture, mixing until incorporated.

Flour work surface and turn the dough out. Press until ¾ inch thick rectangle.
Fold the dough onto inself and press back to ¾ inch thick rectangle. Repeat this step again.

Cut into 3 inch biscuits with cutter or mason jar lid.

Place biscuits close together in pan.

Drizzle melted butter on top of biscuits.

Bake for 18-20 minutes until golden on top.

Enjoy!

Farmer Cheese

Farmer's cheese on a black plate

Farmer Cheese

Servings:16 servings
Ingredients:
1 gallon whole milk
1/2 cup vinegar or lemon
2 teaspoons kosher salt
6 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill, chives or ground herbs of your choice

Directions:
1 gallon milk in large pan and slowly heat until 190 degrees. The top will be a fine foam of bubbles. Stir occasionally while heating. Remove from heat

Slowly add 1/2 Cup vinegar or lemon juice, and stir the milk. Curds will immediately begin to form.

Let the milk sit for 15 minutes without stirring.

After 15 minutes, add the herbs, if using.
6tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill, chives or ground herbs of your choice
Optional:
1 -1/2 teaspoon Citric acid can replace vinegar or lemon

Place a colander over a large bowl or pot. Drape either a dampened cheesecloth or thin dampened clean dish towel over the colander. Pour the curds into the cheesecloth. The whey, all the liquid in the mixture, will drain and be collected in the bowl below, while the solid curds will be caught in the cheesecloth.

Lift the cheesecloth and wrap it around the curds, twisting and squeezing to remove as much moisture as possible.

After squeezing out the moisture, the curds for farmer cheese will be dry and crumbly. If you want a creamier texture, mix a little of the reserved whey back into the curds.

Add 2 teaspoon kosher salt and stir it together.

To shape the cheese, keep it wrapped in cheesecloth and form it into a mound on a plate. Set another plate on top and press the curds into a flat disc that is 1 to 2 inches tall. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour or so before removing the cheesecloth.

To make a ball, tie the cheesecloth with a length of butcher’s twine, attach it to a shelf in the refrigerator or a wooden spoon, and suspend it over a bowl. Gravity will help shape the cheese into a ball and remove any excess moisture.

How to Store
Farmer cheese will keep for up to a week in the refrigerator when stored in an airtight container.
You can freeze farmer cheese; wrap in plastic wrap and place in a zip-top freezer bag. Upon thawing it, however, the texture will be a bit crumblier.
If saving the whey, store it in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to one week.

Corn Casserole – Preppy Kitchen

Notes
Use room temperature ingredients. Let the eggs and sour cream come to room temperature before you start this dish. Eggs will take 30 minutes to 1 hour to reach room temperature, and sour cream takes about an hour. Cold ingredients are harder to incorporate and might not yield a creamy batter.
Jazz up the flavor. Sauté 1 diced yellow onion, 2 minced garlic cloves, and 2 tablespoons of chopped fresh thyme leaves in the butter. Whisk together the sour cream and eggs, then stir in the onion mixture and corn along with the remaining ingredients.
Add sugar. While I prefer this easy casserole on the more savory side, you can add 2 tablespoons of granulated sugar to the sour cream and egg mixture for more sweetness. (Add it along with the corn.)
Add cheese. For extra creaminess and comfort, add 1 cup of shredded cheese like gruyere, Swiss, or cheddar cheese into the batter before pouring it into the pan. Buy a block of cheese and shred it at home. Pre-shredded cheese has additives to prevent clumping, and it therefore doesn’t melt very well.

Servings8 servings
AuthorJohn Kanell

Equipment
8×8” casserole dish

Ingredients
1 (8-ounce) box cornbread mix (like Jiffy Corn Muffin Mix)
1 (15-ounce) can whole kernel corn drained
1 (15-ounce) can creamed corn
2 large eggs
1 cup sour cream (120g)
½ cup unsalted butter melted
Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly grease an 8×8-inch baking dish.
In a large mixing bowl, combine the sour cream, egg, and melted butter, and whisk until well combined. Add the corn, creamed corn, cornbread mix, ¼ teaspoon of salt, and black pepper to taste. (Use more or less salt to taste depending on the salt levels in your canned corn.) Stir together until well combined and pour into the prepared casserole dish.

Bake for 40 to 45 minutes or until the top and edges are golden brown, and the center is only slightly jiggly when gently shaken. Let cool for a few minutes before serving warm.

Hashbrown Casserole

Servings12 servings
Author: John Kanell – Preppy Kitchen
Notes
For an extra crunchy texture, you can add some panko breadcrumbs, cornflakes, or crushed Ritz crackers tossed in melted butter over the cheese. However, you’ll have to cover the baking dish with foil until the last 5 to 10 minutes to ensure the crunchy toppings don’t burn.

You can use frozen cubed hashbrowns if you can’t find shredded hashbrowns.

If you’re not a fan of cheddar cheese, you can use any type of melty cheese in its place, such as mozzarella, Monterey Jack, pepper jack, Gruyere, and provolone.
You can add some meat to this hashbrown casserole, such as shredded chicken, cubed ham, or crumbled bacon bits.Add some heat to this old-fashioned hashbrown casserole by adding some diced jalapeños.
Equipment
9×13″ casserole dish
Ingredients
½ cup unsalted butter melted (113g)
2 cups sour cream (480g)
1 (10.5-ounce/298g) can cream of chicken soup
3 cups shredded cheddar cheese divided (12 ounces/338g)
1 small onion finely chopped
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 (30-ounce/850g) bag frozen shredded hash brown potatoes
Instructions
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Pour the melted butter into a 9×13-inch baking dish and swirl to coat.
In a large mixing bowl, stir together the sour cream, cream of chicken soup, 2 cups of shredded cheddar, onion, salt, and pepper. Fold in potatoes until well coated.
Spoon the mixture into the prepared baking dish and sprinkle with the remaining cup of cheddar cheese.
Bake for 45 to 50 minutes or until the casserole is bubbling and beginning to brown at the corners. Let cool for 15 minutes before serving.

White Bread From Preppy Kitchen

Notes
Do not use hot melted butter. Melt the butter, then let it cool slightly, about 10 minutes. When added to the yeast mixture, it should be less than 105°F, or it could kill the yeast. I like to melt the butter first, then measure out all of my ingredients and bloom the yeast so it cools during that time.
For a softer loaf: You can replace up to 1 cup of water with warm milk.
Sugar swap: You can use honey in place of the granulated sugar to feed the yeast.
To make 1 loaf: You can halve the recipe to make one loaf instead of two.

Cook Time30minutes minutes
Rise Time1hour hour 10minutes minutes
Servings2 loaves
Author: John Kanell – Preppy Kitchen
Equipment
2 9-inch loaf pans
Ingredients
2 cups warm water (105 to 110°F) (480ml)
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 (0.25-ounce/7g) packets active dry yeast
6 cups all-purpose flour (720g)
4 tablespoons unsalted butter melted (56g)
2 teaspoons salt
Instructions
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, stir together the warm water, sugar, and yeast until combined. Let it stand for 5 minutes, or until very foamy.
To the same bowl with the yeast mixture, add the flour, butter and salt. Mix on low speed for 1 minute or until the dough comes together in a shaggy ball and pulls away from the sides of the bowl. (If any small bits of dough remain on the sides of the bowl, stop the mixer and scrape them into the dough ball.)
Increase the mixer speed to medium-low and continue to knead for 5 to 7 minutes, until the dough is smooth and springs back quickly when pressed with a finger. The dough should feel moist, but not sticky.
Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl. Flip the dough over once so that the top is also greased. Cover it with plastic wrap and let it rise in a warm, draft-free spot (75°F) for 40 to 50 minutes, until the dough is nearly doubled in size and springs back slowly when pressed with a wet fingertip.
Meanwhile, grease two 9×5-inch loaf pans with butter or baking spray.
Punch down the dough and turn it onto a very lightly floured surface. Divide it into 2 equal pieces (630g each).
Form each piece into an 8×12-inch rectangle. Starting with a short end, roll each piece into a tight, log shape. Pinch the seams along the sides tightly together and gently tuck them under the loaf. Use a bench scraper to pick up the loaves and place them seam side down into the prepared loaf pans. Loosely cover both pans with plastic wrap sprayed with nonstick spray and let them rise again for 25 to 35 minutes, or until the height of the dough rises just above the top rim of the pan.
While the dough is rising in the pans, preheat the oven to 350°F. Once the loaves have finished their second rise, brush the top of each loaf with additional melted butter if desired.
Bake for 30 – 35 minutes until the tops are golden brown. Let them cool for a few minutes in the pan, then tip them onto a wire cooling rack to cool completely.
Nutrition
Calories: 1635kcal | Carbohydrates: 301g | Protein: 42g | Fat: 27g | Saturated Fat: 15g | Polyunsaturated Fat: 2g | Monounsaturated Fat: 7g | Trans Fat: 1g | Cholesterol: 60mg | Sodium: 2352mg | Potassium: 476mg | Fiber: 12g | Sugar: 13g | Vitamin A: 700IU | Vitamin C: 0.02mg | Calcium: 74mg | Iron: 18mg

How to make Basic herbal salve

Pro tip: The consistency of salves can easily be adjusted depending on your preferences. Use less beeswax for a softer salve and more beeswax if you’d like a firmer salve.

You can test the consistency by placing a spoon in the freezer before making your salve. When the beeswax melts, pour a little salve onto one of the cold spoons and place it back into the freezer for 1 to 2 minutes. This will simulate what the final consistency will be like.

Once cooled, you can make adjustments by adding more oil (for a softer salve) or more beeswax (for a firmer salve).

First make Make an infused oil
You can use a 1:2 ratio of dried herbs to olive oil, and simmer the mixture for an hour. You can also use a double boiler to gently heat the oil and beeswax together until the beeswax melts.

Basic Salve 1 Makes 5 ounces.

Ingredients
1 oz. beeswax (use carnauba wax for a vegan salve)
4 oz. herbal infused oil(s) of your choice (choose one or a combination)
10-20 drops essential oil of choice (optional)

Directions
Wrap beeswax bar in an old towel. On a sturdy surface, use a hammer to break bar up into small chunks.
Place beeswax in a double boiler and gently warm over low heat until the beeswax melts.
Add herbal oils and stir over low heat until well-mixed.
Remove from heat and add the essential oil(s).
Quickly pour warm mixture into prepared tins, glass jars, or lip balm tubes and allow to cool completely.
Store in a cool location for 1 to 3 years.

Salve 2 Makes approximately 9 ounces.
8 oz. infused herbal oil
1 oz. beeswax, either grated or pellets
a double boiler

Directions:
Warm oil in double boiler. Add beeswax and stir until melted. Test the consistency of your salve by dipping a clean spoon into the mixture, and putting it in the freezer for a few minutes. If it’s softer than you’d like, add more beeswax.

Pour the still-warm salve into containers (old jam jars or small metal tins work well). If adding essential oils, do so now (only a few drops are need) and stir with a chopstick or other clean implement.
Put the cap on the containers, and store in a dark, cool place. Salves will last up to a year.

Storing Herbs and Herbal Preparations for Freshness and Longevity

Dried leaves and flowers will typically last one to two years, and roots can last two to three years. If you store dried herbs correctly, you’ll find the following to be a useful guideline:
Dried leaves and flowers have a shelf life of 1-2 years
Roots, seeds, and barks can last 2-3 years
Use your senses—smell, sight, and taste—to determine the vitality of stored herbs. If an herb looks vibrant and has retained most of its flavor and/or aroma, it’s still good medicine!

Storing Herbal Tinctures
Properly stored tinctures—prepared with high-percentage alcohol (50% or higher)—can last for years, even decades. We store our tinctures (and syrups, vinegars, oxymels, infused oils, and simple syrups) in amber glass dispensing bottles with polyseal caps. These bottles have several helpful attributes:
The brown glass excludes light, which can degrade medicine over time.
The inside of the polyseal cap is resistant to solvents, as it is manufactured for chemical storage. While I don’t like that the inside of the cap is plastic, I haven’t yet found a better system.
The bottles are a small investment, but they are washable and reusable—I have dozens that have been with me for over a decade.
As an alternative, people often store their medicine in glass canning jars. If you go this route, be aware that alcohol and vinegar will corrode canning lids over time, contaminating the medicine with plastic compounds. To prevent this, use natural waxed paper as a barrier on the inside of the lid.
Finally, make sure to store your alcohol-based tinctures some distance from the stove and potential kitchen fires as they are very flammable.
Storing Herbal-Infused Oils and Salves
Herbal-infused oils and salves will typically last two to three years when refrigerated and one year unrefrigerated, depending on the stability of the oil used. Using dried herbs will greatly increase the shelf life of your herbal-infused oils.

Storing Powdered Herbs and Capsules
Herbal powders have a shorter shelf life than cut and sifted herbs (loose teas and bulk herbs) because the plant material is ground to such a fine consistency. Use powdered herbs within 6-12 months, storing them in the refrigerator or freezer for maximum freshness.

Healing Herbal Lip Balm

This nourishing lip salve is infused with healing herbs for chapped, hurting lips. Great for all ages and guys too!
Yield: 4 ounces Author: Katie Wells
Equipment
Small tins (or lip balm tubes)
Double boiler OR glass bowl and pot
Materials
½ cup olive oil (or sweet almond oil)
½ tsp echinacea
½ tsp comfrey leaf
1 tsp plantain leaf (herb-not the fruit!)
1 tsp calendula flowers
½ tsp yarrow flowers
½ tsp rosemary leaf
¼ cup beeswax pastilles
10 drops vitamin E oil (optional)
5-10 drops essential oil (optional)
Instructions
Infuse the herbs into the liquid oil. See above for more details.
Heat 1/4 cup of the infused oil in a double boiler with the beeswax until melted and mixed. Save the extra oil for use on wounds/cuts or another batch of lip salve.
Remove from heat and stir in the essential oil and vitamin E oil (if using).
Pour into small tins, glass jars, or lip balm tubes and use on dry or chapped lips.
Notes
Store in a cool, dry place and use clean hands to apply.
This will last for about 6 months if stored properly (a little longer if you use the vitamin E oil).

Homemade Lip Balm

Easily make and customize your own homemade chapstick with all natural ingredients.

Yield: lip balm tubes

Author: Katie Wells

Equipment

Materials

1 TBSP beeswax pellets
2 TBSP cocoa butter (Shea butter or mango butter will also work)
2 TBSP coconut oil
20 drops essential oil of choice (adjust amount to preference)
13 drops vitamin E oil (optional)

Instructions

Add a few inches of water to the bottom of a small pan and heat over medium heat.
Place a small heat-safe jar (pint size or smaller) in the water, being careful not to get any water inside the jar. You can also use a double boiler or a glass bowl perched on top of a small pot of water.
Add the cocoa butter, coconut oil, and one tablespoon beeswax to the jar and slowly melt, stirring occasionally. Make sure not to get any water in the jar.
When all the ingredients are melted, stir well and turn off the heat. Leave jar in the water to keep warm.
Stir in the essential oils.
Use a glass dropper to quickly fill the lip balm containers, like tubes or lip balm tins.
The mixture will settle slightly as it cools, so I top off the containers after about 2 minutes as they start to harden.
Let sit without touching for several hours or until completely hardened.

Notes

Shelf life and Storage: Keep in a cool, dry place for up about 2 years. The optional vitamin E oil helps extend the shelf life even further.
This will make a medium firm lip balm. If you prefer a firmer version, you can add more beeswax, up to double the recommended amount. If you prefer a smoother and more oily lip balm, you can reduce the amount of beeswax.

Chia Seeds

Chia seeds are a good source of fiber and omega-3 fatty acids. They may help improve digestion and reduce irritable bowel syndrome (IBS) symptoms, such as constipation.

Chia Seed Nutrition Facts:The following nutrition information is provided by the USDA for 1 ounce (28g) of dry chia seeds. There are 2 tablespoons in 1 dry ounce of seeds.
chia seeds, dried: Calories: 138 Fat: 8.7g odium: 5mg Carbohydrates: 12g Fiber: 9.8g Sugars: 0g Protein: 4.7g

Improve gut health:
A healthy gut has a balance of “good” and “bad” bacteria. An imbalance of gut bacteria, can lead to inflammation and other problems. Chia seeds are good for gut health because they contain fiber and omega-3 fatty acids. These nutrients can increase the number of good bacteria, reduce the number of bad bacteria, and improve the gut lining. This prevents harmful bacteria from entering the body.

Prevents constipation
Chia seeds are a great source of dietary fiber, which can help regulate bowel movements and prevent constipation in people with IBS-C.

According to the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) Nutrient Database, a 28 gram (g) [1 ounce (oz)] or 2 1/2 tablespoon (tbsp) serving of chia seeds contains 11.2 g of fiber. The USDA recommends a dietary fiber intake of 14 g per 1,000 calories of food. Since chia seeds have such a high fiber content, they likely speed up intestinal transit and help people manage constipation. There are 2 tablespoons in 1 dry ounce.

How to use chia seeds
Sprinkling: Sprinkle chia seeds onto cereals, yogurt, salads, or smoothies for added texture and nutrition.
Mixing: Mix chia seeds with water or liquids to create a thickener for jams, sauces, and dressings.
Baking: Add chia seeds to muffin or bread mixtures for an extra fiber boost.
Egg substitute: Combine 1 tbsp of ground chia seeds with 4 tbsp of warm water as a quick egg substitute.
Chia pudding: Mix 2 tbsp of chia seeds with 1/2 cup of milk or a plant-based alternative and let it sit overnight in the fridge.

Raw: Chia seeds in raw form have a mild flavor often described as earthy, and they offer a delicious crunch, adding a delightful texture to meals. Its subtle raw taste allows it to be easily infused into different recipes without overwhelming other flavors. Their neutral flavor profile also allows people to add them on top of yogurt and smoothies or use them as a topping for salads.
When Soaked: When soaked in water, chia seeds develop a gel-like consistency and texture with an almost flavorless taste. This neutrality in taste makes it easier to be incorporated into different dishes without altering their overall flavor. One of the benefits of chia seeds in water is that this process unlocks the high fiber and omega-3 content, which helps promote digestive health.
Thus, you can enjoy their versatile nature by infusing chia seeds into sweet and savory dishes.
When Cooked: When chia seeds are cooked, their taste profile changes into a toasted flavor. The reason is that cooking softens the seeds and promotes their nutty essence. Cooked chia seeds infuse a delightful depth to dishes, with a slight earthy and nutty taste that enhances the overall flavor profile. Depending on the ingredients they are combined with, chia seeds can absorb and complement other flavors in the dish. Their versatile nature makes them perfect for different recipes, whether baked goods or stovetop dishes. Overall, cooked chia seeds provide a satisfying taste experience compared to their soaked or raw form.
When Ground: Ground chia seeds have a nutty flavor that is intensified compared to their whole seeds form. The grinding process releases their natural oils, which improves their taste profile. Thus, grounded chia seeds contribute delicious richness to dishes, resembling the essence of seeds and nuts. With their robust taste, ground chia seeds provide a unique and satisfying culinary experience, allowing you to infuse their nutritional benefits into dishes while amplifying the overall flavor of your recipes.
Is it possible to have too many chia seeds?

While chia seeds are safe for most people, eating too many may cause side effects. Excessive fiber intake may lead to digestive issues, such as abdominal cramps or flatulence, particularly for people not used to eating fiber-rich foods. Excessive fiber intake may also impair how the body absorbs essential minerals from foods such as zinc, iron, and calcium.

Some people may be allergic to chia seeds, but this is rare.

Making Yarrow Herbal Remedies

Due to its styptic and antimicrobial properties, it is famously known for its ability to stop bleeding (when applied directly to a wound), prevent infection, and aid blood circulation when taken internally.

Women who are pregnant should not consume yarrow internally because it can cause bleeding. Consult a clinical herbalist or medical professional before ingesting. Yarrow is a member of the Asteraceae (daisy) family so those with allergies to aster flowers should avoid ingesting and may also experience an allergic reaction to a topical application.

It is often used as a poultice, wash, soak, or salve to relieve pain, and help to heal wounds and injuries of various types.
It can be beneficial in alleviating digestive complaints and symptoms of colds and flu, and is also used to treat hemorrhoids, ease menstrual discomfort and postpartum bleeding, and reduce inflammation in the gums.
The next time you have a toothache, try chewing on a yarrow leaf. Its analgesic properties can help to numb the affected area.
Making Yarrow Herbal Remedies at Home
Harvest flower clusters when plants are in full bloom, cutting the top third of the plant just above a leaf node.
Leaves and flowers can be steeped in boiling water to make tea, and are best used fresh when applied as poultices for treating minor wounds.

You can dry foliage and flowers using a dehydrator, spread or hang them to air dry, or place them in the oven on the “warm” setting. Once they are thoroughly dried, it is easy to strip the leaves and flowers off the stems.
Both the dried leaves and the flowers can be consumed internally as a tea, preserved in tinctures, or infused into oils to make salves and creams.
Yarrow tea has a sweet and mildly bitter, aromatic flavor. It makes a wonderful addition to the herbal medicine cabinet to alleviate mild symptoms of colds and flu, as well as minor digestive complaints.
Infused Oil
Making an infused oil with yarrow is easy, and this serves as a useful treatment for wounds, inflamed muscles, and bruises. Its anti-inflammatory and astringent properties may help to reduce varicose vein swelling in some cases.
Just grind up some dried leaves and flowers, place them in a glass jar, and cover with a carrier oil in a 1:4 ratio, with one part dried plant matter and four parts oil.
I recommend using cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil as it is affordable and easy to find, but you can use any kind of high-quality neutral carrier oil that you prefer.
Seal the jar tightly with a lid and set it in a dark place for a few weeks, shaking daily to agitate the mixture.
You can also choose to leave the jar in the sun to heat infuse for the first few days. Be sure to move it to a cool, dark location for the remainder of the infusing time.
After 4-6 weeks, strain the oil and use it as is, or try melting in some beeswax and essential oils to make an herbal salve. This can be stored in tins or jars in a cool, dark place.
Tincture
You can also make a tincture from the dried leaves and flowers. As described above, grind them up, place them in a glass jar, and cover with 80 proof (or higher) alcohol.
Leave it to infuse for 6-8 weeks in a cool, dark place.
Strain, and place in a labeled dropper bottle. The tincture can be used as a mosquito repellent when applied to the skin, but always make sure you test it on a small area first, especially if you have sensitive skin.

First Aid Yarrow Salve:A natural remedy for stings, rashes, minor cuts, burns, and abrasions

Infusion Time: 48 hours or 4-6 weeks

Herbal Prep Time: 5 minutes

Cook Time: 5 minutes

Makes about 12 oz.

*The quantity this recipe produces makes it a great product to keep in a jar for home first aid kits, and/or to give to friends and family. Use within 6-8 months.

Ingredients:

1 1/2 to 2 cups fresh yarrow leaves and white flowers

1 1/4 to 1 1/2 cups jojoba oil (or any other neutral oil)

1 ounce beeswax (the more wax the more firm the salve)

Double boiler (or saucepan and heatproof bowl)

Salve tins (or small resealable jars)

FOLK INFUSION METHOD

Gather yarrow from a clean area that hasn’t been sprayed with chemicals. Double-check that you have identified the yarrow properly before beginning this project.
Roughly chop the yarrow, filling a pint mason jar almost to the top with leaves.
Pour oil (jojoba, grape seed, or olive oil) over the yarrow leaves, then cover with the lid.
Place the jar in a sunny window for 4-6 weeks. Every few days shake up the jar. If you are using the rapid infusion method, then skip this step and instead follow the set of instructions listed below before resuming with step 5 here.
When the oil is completely infused, strain out the yarrow leaves. It should be a bright or deep green color.
Pour the infused yarrow oil into a heatproof bowl, place the bowl over a pot of gently simmering water, creating a double boiler.
Stir in the beeswax and let it slowly melt into the oil. Test the firmness of the salve by spooning out a small amount then placing the metal spoon in the freezer for 30 seconds. Then, take out the spoon and touch the salve. If you want it more firm, add more beeswax. Keep doing this until you reach your desired consistency.
Remove from heat once the beeswax is completely incorporated.
Carefully pour the oil and beeswax combination into the salve tins or a wide mouth jar. If you’d like to add 1-2 drops of essential oil into each tin, now is the time. It’s an optional step that can add fragrance.
Cover the tins with their lids and let the salve set completely before using; around 30-45 minutes.

Rapid Infusion Method

This method allows an infusion to occur within 1-2 days as opposed to 6 weeks. This is a great option if you have the equipment and you’re short on time. Between step 3 and step 5 listed above, follow these instructions:

Fill a saucepan or slow cooker with 1 inch of water. Carefully place the yarrow-and oil-filled jar on a trivet in a double boiler or in the slow cooker.
Slowly heat the water until it reaches 110 to 120 degrees. Turn off the heat.
Keep the contents of the jar incubating in the warm water. Bring the water back up to temperature periodically over the next 24 to 48 hours, never leaving the heat on for any prolonged amount of time and never allowing the water line to evaporate to less than 1/2-1 inch.

A Note of Caution:
This plant is generally recognized as safe for use, though in rare cases yarrow may cause an allergic reaction. It should not be used if you are sensitive to plants in the aster (Asteraceae) family. It should also be used with caution during pregnancy or if you are taking any prescription medication. Always remember to consult your doctor or healthcare practitioner before using any herbal remedy.
According to the ASPCA, yarrow is toxic to dogs, cats, and horses.

Some gardeners also use yarrow instead of comfrey to make a tea fertilizer to apply as a soil conditioner. Because it is drought tolerant and can grow in poor, dry soils, it is also useful for combating erosion.

Monarch or Black Swallowtail Caterpillar

People often confuse the Black Swallowtail caterpillar with Monarch caterpillars, especially when they look the most similar. There are some main differences to look out for.

The Black Swallowtail caterpillars have thicker, green stripes and yellow, wavy “dots”. They also don’t have the long tentacles on their head and tail end like Monarch caterpillars do.

The most telltale sign is that Monarch will be eating on Milkweed while Eastern Swallowtails will be nibbling on plants of the Carrot family (dill, fennel, rue, Queen Anne’s lace, celery, parsley etc.)

Host Plants of the Eastern Black Swallowtail
Adult Eastern Black Swallowtails will lay eggs on plants in the Carrot family. You may find the caterpillars eating on these plants in great numbers but don’t be alarmed! There are several ways to keep the caterpillars happy while also saving some of the plant for yourself!

How to keep the caterpillars happy and not lose all of your plants or resort to using pesticides!
1. Plant extra dill or fennel so that there is enough for them and you to eat.
2. Pick the caterpillars off of the plant and put them into a butterfly enclosure with the host plant to watch them pupate and eclose into a beautiful butterfly.
3. Successional planting of dill/fennel/parsley etc. throughout the summer so there is always enough to go around.
Lifecycle of the Black Swallowtail
Similar to the Monarch butterfly: The female butterfly lays one yellow egg at a time on a host plant. After 4-9 days, a caterpillar (larva) hatches from the egg. Over 10-30 days, the caterpillar grows through 5 different stages (called instars) to a length of 2 inches.

Winter and Summer Herbs In Tucson AZ.

https://growinginthegarden.com/arizona-vegetable-planting-guide-a-visual-guide-for-low-desert-vegetables-2/

From roughly October through May in Tucson, herbs that don’t tolerate high temperatures grow well. These include things like cilantro, parsley, dill, and caraway. When temperatures creep up, these herbs bolt, which means that they flower and then die. To keep these plants going next season, remove the winter herbs in May and save their seeds. Replace them with herbs that can tolerate the Tucson summer heat. Herbs that grow well in the heat include basil, lemon balm, lemon verbena, oregano, mint, and garlic chives. Mexican mint marigold—also referred to as Texas tarragon and winter tarragon—is a heat-loving version of tarragon that is well suited to Tucson’s summer climate.

Landscaping Herbs

Herbs that can grow year-round in Tucson are easily integrated into landscaping. A popular example of this is rosemary, which many people in the region use for groundcover in their landscaping. Germander (Teucrium chamaedrys) is another popular choice for this purpose, as is lavender.

If you opt for lavender, stay away from English varieties and look for French (photo at left) or Spanish lavender (lavender pink), which will be better suited to the climate in Tucson. Some summer herbs, such as lemon verbena and lemon grass, can be used for landscaping as well, if they are planted in protected areas and covered in the case of frost.

Arizona has two planting seasons—a cool season (September through mid-November) and a warm season (mid-February through March).

Cool-season annuals include cilantro (coriander), dill, German chamomile and garlic and; while basil, epazote and summer savory are warm-season annuals. Sep 21, 2021

You can grow a respectable herbal apothecary in pots. In fact, some of the most beneficial medicinal herbs will positively thrive in containers placed right on your porch or patio.

- Plant bee balm in Arizona: February – March
  Harvest leaves anytime.Good to know: Needs frequent water and afternoon shade. Attracts beneficial insects and pollinators. Considered a perennial flower, but often grown as an annual in the low desert of Arizona. Plant near tomatoes to improve flavor and growth.
  
  Anise:
  
  Grows best from seed
  Plant in February – April and October – November
  Harvest seeds by clipping entire head and storing in paper bag until dry.
  Annual. Anise grows about 2 feet tall.
  
  Bay:
- Grows best from cutting or transplant

Plant bay in Late February – April

Harvest dark leaves anytime. Use within 3-4 months for best flavor. Perennial. New plantings are frost-tender.

Borage:
grows best from seed

When to plant : October – January

Harvest young stems for best flavor. Pick flowers and use fresh, frozen, or dried.

Cool-season annual. Self-seeds readily. Attracts pollinators. Plant with squash, strawberries, and tomatoes.

Calendula:

Grows best from seed or transplant

When to plant calendula in Arizona: Late September – November

Harvest flowers regularly when young and fresh.

Good to know: Cool-season annual. Edible, and medicinal uses. Reseeds easily. Early bloomer. Often grown as a trap crop for aphids. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms.

Chamomile:

Grows best from seed or transplant; reseeds readily

Plant chamomile in Arizona: October – March

Harvest chamomile when the petals are flat or beginning to fall back from bud. Air-dry or dry in a dehydrator.

Cool-season annual. Grows best in cooler weather. Improves the flavor of cabbage and onions.

Chives:

Grows best from seed or division

When to plant chives in Arizona: October – April

Harvest by cutting leaves at the base.

Low-growing perennial; beautiful when flowering. Divide plants in the fall or early spring. Improves the growth and flavor of carrots.

Dill:

Grows best from seed; handle transplants carefully; reseeds readily

When to plant dil in Arizona: October – January

Use leaves fresh or dried. Let seed ripen on plant before harvesting. Bouquet dill has large seed heads. Fern-leaf dill has large plants for using fresh leaves.

Cool-season annual. Attracts swallowtail caterpillars. Trap crop for aphids; can attract ladybugs.

Ginger:

Grows best from rhizomes

When to plant ginger in Arizona: March

Harvest ginger about 10 months after planting by carefully digging out rhizomes.

Ginger needs a long warm growing season to grow well. Provide shade to protect leaves from sunburn. Harvest when leaves turn yellow and die back.

Lemon Grass:

Grows best from division or transplant
When to plant lemon grass in Arizona: February – April
Harvest the fresh leaves and stems of single stalks as needed.
Perennial. Grows well year-round in the low desert of Arizona.
Nasturtium:

Grows best from seedWhen to plant nasturtiums in Arizona: October – JanuaryHarvest leaves and flowers just before using. Harvest seed pods just before they turn from green to brown. Cool-season annual. Overly rich soil results in fewer blooms. Reseeds readily.
Rosemary:

Grows best from cutting or transplant.
When to plant rosemary in Arizona: October – January
Harvest stems as needed anytime. Best flavor is just before flowers appear. Drought-tolerant perennial. Takes full sun but needs well-drained soil. Cutting back by more than 1/3 can shock plant. Grows up to 6 feet tall. Good companion plant to cabbage, beans, carrots, and sage. Deters cabbage moths, bean beetles, and carrot flies.

Turmeric:

Grows from rhizomes

When to plant turmeric in Arizona: March
Harvest turmeric about 10 months after planting by carefully digging out rhizomes.
Prefers shade when grown in Arizona. Keep an eye on moisture levels. Can rot if too wet, but needs regular water and feeding to grow well.

Growing Herbs

What to Consider When Choosing the Best Soil for Herbs
Growing herbs, either in a garden patch or on a sunny windowsill, is a rewarding experience that’s even more gratifying when the fresh, tasty results jazz up a dinner recipe. Before planting and choosing the best soil for plants, consider where the garden will be located and the fertilizer, pH level, nutrients, and water needs of the desired herbs.
Location
Herbs that grow in an outdoor garden have different requirements than indoor or container plants. For outdoor success, opt for garden soil, which is formulated for in-ground plants. Garden soil, which is heavy and dense, can become too compacted in a container, reducing its ability to drain and negatively impacting roots.
For indoor and container gardens, potting soil or potting mix is preferable. Though these terms are often used interchangeably, they are technically different products. Potting soil, as the name implies, contains soil (either partially or completely). Potting mix, however, does not contain any actual soil and instead consists of a range of natural ingredients to create a light and well-draining texture. Potting mix tends to be the best choice for container herb gardening because, in addition to draining well, it is sterile and often includes added nutrients.
Fertilizer and Other Ingredients
Soils and potting mixes are scientifically formulated to include ingredients that can help plants thrive. Fertilizer can be chemical or organic material that adds nutrients, and while exact fertilizing needs depend on the particular plant and growing conditions, most herbs can benefit from a blend of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. The rule of thumb is to only fertilize as much as needed; overdoing it can cause some herbs to grow too fast, which risks losing flavor.
For outdoor herbs, a soil test can determine what nutrients may be lacking so the gardener can fertilize accordingly. Container herbs may require more frequent fertilizing because pots hold small amounts of growing medium, and plants can use up nutrients as water leaches them away. Using a potting mix with fertilizing ingredients, then adding a fertilizer later (as needed), can help optimize plant health.
Potting mixes, which are soilless, contain various ingredients—such as coconut coir, peat moss, and perlite—to create and maintain their fluffy, well-draining texture. Garden soil and some potting soils often contain organic ingredients like compost and manure to boost soil health.

Herbs like mint and oregano are voracious growers and get down right aggressive (even invasion) in a garden. To keep the rest of your garden plot safe, consider growing these herbs in pots and burying them in the ground. The added measure of control a pot puts on the roots of these herbs can keep them from moving in to the rest of your garden and prompting taking over. Of course the surest way to protect your garden from this threat is to grow them in pots grown above ground.

Potting soil or topsoil, compost, and sand
A sandy-loam is the best soil for growing the largest range of herbs as it is rarely waterlogged in winter, is dry in summer and it is naturally high in nutrients. Sandy soils are light, dry, warm, low in nutrients and often acidic. This soil feels rough and gritty when handled and are easy to cultivate and work.
pH Level
While most herbs prefer slightly acidic to neutral soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0, some common species deviate slightly from this scale. Rosemary, for example, prefers a pH between 5.0 and 6.0. Use a soil pH-testing kit to determine if pH-adjusting amendments, like limestone or sulfur, should be added to the herb garden.
Nutrients
Necessary nutrients may be added to growing mediums to help nourish plants. High-quality potting mixes typically contain important nutrients, which can be organic or nonorganic (chemical) in origin, to help with plant health.
Many companies list nutrients on the product label, displaying the soil’s nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium content as a ratio of percentages. These nutrients usually release slowly to last for a few weeks to a few months before additional fertilizer is necessary.
Water
While herbs should be watered often enough to keep the soil moist, overwatering will likely result in soggy roots, which can lead to rotting. To prevent overwatering, a well-draining soil is important for herb gardens, especially for container-grown plants.
Different herbs have different water needs. Mint and parsley, for example, do well in fairly moist soil, while rosemary and sage prefer dryer soil. Pro tip: Bunch herbs with similar watering needs close together to help ensure proper watering. Using a moisture meter is a good way to help ensure proper watering. These inexpensive tools are stuck into soil to measure the moisture level at the root level.
Drainage
Precise drainage is important to growing herbs successfully. Too little drainage and the roots can drown, while too much drainage will cause water to flow through too quickly for the roots to absorb. A soil with good drainage allows for adequate water and airflow so both water and oxygen can reach plant roots. Many of the most popular herbs (like basil, bay leaf, cilantro, and lavender) are native to the Mediterranean, so they grow best in soil with good drainage, similar to soils found in that region.

Yarrow Tea

Ingredients

2 TB yarrow
2 TB elderflower
4 TB mint
2 TB red clover
1 TB maple syrup

Instructions

Steep herbs in a quart jar of hot water.
Cover and let sit for about 6 hours, to steep the full benefits. I will often do this overnight, but, fair warning, if it steeps too long it can taste bitter. Usually overnight is perfect.
To make the removal of the herbs super easy, I love my quart-size tea steeper, linked below.
Add sweetener and stir. (Read more above about choosing the right sweetener.)
Serve over ice, or you can warm it as well and enjoy a mug-full of this delicious hot tea.

Notes

I choose maple for both the taste and the added polyphenols and antioxidants. In fact, I substitute maple syrup for sugar in almost everything.

If you use maple syrup, always be sure you’re using 100% maple syrup. (It’s the second most faked food in the world, topped only by olive oil.)

Grow Aloe Vera

Planting Outdoors
Aloe vera is hardy in zones 10 through 12 and can be planted outdoors in warm climates. If growing outdoors, make sure that your soil is well-draining, says Ryan McEnaney, garden designer and author of Field Guide to Outside Style: Design and Plant Your Perfect Outdoor Space.

Dig a hole twice as wide and just as deep as the pot the plant is in.
Place the plant in the ground, making sure the crown is even with existing soil.
Backfill the hole with soil so the roots are covered.
Water the plant thoroughly, letting it drain completely before re-watering.

Planting in Containers
Aloe vera is a low-maintenance houseplant you can grow indoors year-round. If you’re planting aloe in a pot, I recommend a porous terracotta pot, which allows water to more easily evaporate. Choose a well-draining soil, preferably one marked for cactus or other arid plants.

Fill a container most of the way with soil.
Place the plant in the center of the pot.
Backfill with soil to cover the roots.
Water the plant, making sure it fully drains through and doesn’t leave any standing water.

How to Care for Aloe Vera

The key to growing healthy aloe vera in your garden is making sure it is in the right environment.

Soil: Mimic aloe vera’s native environment with well-draining sandy or rocky soil. “For indoor plants, a cactus or succulent soil is a great option,” says McEnaney. “If you’re planting outdoors, especially for year-round growing, make sure to have lots of great drainage so water doesn’t sit at the roots.”

Water: Overwatering your aloe vera can lead to root rot. Whether you’re growing the plant indoors or outdoors, it’s important to test for dryness by checking the soil moisture with your finger. “Water aloe vera when the soil is bone dry,” says Chris Satch, plant doctor at Horti.

Light: Aloe vera plants do best with a lot of sun. If your aloe vera is planted outside, six to eight hours of full sun is best. “Interestingly, while they prefer full sun outdoors, they just need bright indirect light indoors,” says McEnaney. “The amplification of the sun’s rays through windows can burn the leaves, so make sure they’re not sitting in full sun all day inside.”

Temperature: Aloe vera needs warmer temperatures and is not adaptable for frosts or ongoing cold temperatures. “Ideally, aloe vera should be kept between 55 degrees Fahrenheit and 85 degrees Fahrenheit,” says McEnaney. If growing it in a climate with cold seasons, you can keep the plant outdoors during summer then bring it inside when temperatures drop. If you move from indoors to outdoors for the summer, be sure to transition it slowly over the course of a week. “If nighttime temperatures dip below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, bring the aloe inside overnight,” says McEnaney.

Fertilizer: Aloe vera needs very little to no fertilizer. “If you’re growing the plant indoors, you could give it some succulent fertilizer in early spring,” says McEnaney. “But if your plant is outdoors, no fertilizer is needed.”

Making Aloe Vera Jell

Drain the yellow liquid: Before extracting the gel, cut the larger end and drain the yellow liquid (aloin) from the leaf by placing the leaf with the cut side down in a glass, or tilt leaf in a bowl, for 15 minutes. Rinse the leaf again, starting from the bottom, I do this for a few minutes just to give me peace of mind that all debris and impurities are completely removed.
This helps to get rid of the bitter taste.

Things You Should Know. Pure aloe vera gel can be stored in the fridge for up to 1 week. To prolong the shelf life of your aloe vera gel to 1 month in the fridge, blend it with a vitamin C tablet. You can also freeze Aloe Vera gel for up to 1 year.

Freezing the gel in an ice cube tray rather than one large block means that you can just take out individual pieces whenever you need them. freeze overnight and then place cubes in a sealable bag.

Feeding Fig Trees

Fertilize Fig Cuttings – water soluble – High nitrogen for cuttings

Feeding Fig Trees

I’ve had great results with 4 heavy feedings starting shortly after bud break at intervals of once per week. This year I’m trying 6. That was with a 9-45-15. I can’t say for sure exactly how much each tree has received. However, once my bag of 9-45-15 is gone, I’ll be switching to a 10-5-8. That by my estimation is the right fertilizer ratio for figs. Maybe even a 10-4-12. I’m still undecided. Additionally this year, I will be foliar spraying at one month intervals Dyna-Gro Protekt even into the fall. Which is a 0-0-3 with silica. Literature states some spectacular benefits from silica and anecdotally seems to be worth it in figs. Especially for those of us that have issues with rust. I’m hoping this product will aid in better lignification, cold hardiness and overall plant health. Ph should be around 7 and there’s an argument to be made for something between 7-7.5 for better uptake of magnesium. Lime for the micronutrients is highly recommended and of course make sure all of your bases are covered in terms of micros.
What you don’t want to do:
There’s very little reason to apply nitrogen feedings after you have your desired fruit set. Nitrogen is the main factor in annual shoot production. While necessary, too much will ruin proper lignification and lower fruit quality. You will without any doubt see more cracking in your fruits and I know some will think that’s beautiful, but your fruits will not taste more beautiful. Ideally you want your trees to completely cease growth after achieving your desired fruit set. This is accomplished with ceasing nitrogen and decreasing watering after fruit set. For some of us that’s nearly impossible. It’s certainly possible in containers, but getting that right is again the most ideal scenario.

Constipation

Chia or Flax Seed: 2 1/2 Tb. 1 time a day in food or drink. In extreme case try 3 Tb. Drink plenty of water throughout the day.

Yields 2 ¼ cups loose leaf tea
Ingredients
• ½ C dried senna leaf
• ½ C dried spearmint leaf
• ½ C dried chamomile
• ½ C dried nettle leaf
• ¼ C dried anise seeds
Directions
1. In a large bowl, mix together ½ cup of dried senna leaf, ½ cup of dried spearmint leaf, ½ cup of dried chamomile, ½ cup of dried nettle leaf, and ¼ cup of dried anise seed.
2. Transfer to a glass jar for storage.
3. For best results: This tea should only be used OCCASIONALLY. This tea should be consumed an hour or so before bedtime. When the morning comes, batten down the hatches! Teas for helping to ease constipation are not safe for regular daily use. If you are suffering from regular constipation, please increase fiber in your diet with vegetables and whole grains. Consider increasing consumption of high-magnesium foods (pepitas, almonds, spinach, dark chocolate) and fluids as well as dried fruits like prunes and raisins to help balance your digestive system. Don’t ever forget the power of fresh fruits to facilitate regular bowel movements.
4. Steep 1-2 tablespoons of the dried herbal blend in 8-10 ounces of boiling water. Let steep for 10 minutes, then strain.

From: Upasana Shukla

Remedey 1 Ingredients:-
4 Dried Plums or ¼ cup Raisins
½ tsp. Castor Oil
¼ cup Hot Water

Method:-
In a bowl, mix dried plums, castor oil and soak in hot water for 10-15 minutes and then mash it.

Remedy 2 Ingredients:-
1 Ginger
Mint Leaves

Method:-
Grate the ginger in a vessel and mint leaves to it. Then pour 1 cup water. Heat all this for 10 minutes.

Growing Yarrow in Tucson

Yarrow can grow in Tucson, Arizona:

Western Yarrow: Achillea millefolium

Moonshine yarrow: Achillea x ‘Moonshine’

Hardiness: Yarrow is fully hardy in Tucson.

Sun tolerance: Yarrow can tolerate full morning sun to all-day light shade, but it does best in full sun.

Soil requirements: Yarrow can adapt to many soil types, but it does best in well-drained soil.

Watering: Yarrow should be watered regularly, but fertilizer can negatively impact its longevity and flowering.

Pruning: Yarrow should be divided every couple of years to maintain its vigor and keep it in bounds.

Staking: Yarrow may require staking.

Allergic reaction: Some people may have an allergic reaction to the foliage or sap of yarrow.

Yarrow is a strong-scented plant that’s common in the northern hemisphere, including Arizona’s high country. It’s not a desert species, but it can be found in high desert situations.

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) is a plant that has many uses, including:

Healing wounds: Yarrow has been used to stop bleeding and promote healing of wounds and cuts. It can be applied directly to wounds or crushed into a paste with water.

Treating fevers and colds: Yarrow tea has been used to treat fevers and colds.

Relieving pain: Yarrow can help with toothaches, muscle spasms, and PMS spastic pain.

Reducing inflammation: Yarrow has been used to treat Crohn’s disease and ulcerative colitis.

Soothing stomach issues: Yarrow may help with indigestion, heartburn, and stomach cramps.

Gardening: Yarrow can be grown as a cut flower or dried flower, and its cultivars come in a variety of colors.

Yarrow may be unsafe for people who are pregnant, breastfeeding, or have bleeding disorders. It may also cause an allergic reaction in people who are sensitive to the Asteraceae/Compositae family, which includes ragweed, chrysanthemums, marigolds, and daisies.

Turmeric Healing Paste

To make a healing paste with turmeric:

Mix 1-2 teaspoons of ground turmeric (depending on how large the wound is) with enough water to make a thick paste (generally about half the amount of turmeric you use). You can also mix turmeric with coconut oil instead of water for your paste for more healing and anti-bacterial benefits, or apply it as a face cream/mask to reduce acne, redness, or scars.

Be sure to wash your hands and then apply the paste gently on the wound. (It should be pasty, so don’t expect it to look like a cream.)

Once you’ve covered the infected area, place your bandage of choice over the wound.

Let it sit for at least 12 hours, or up to 24.

Do this for three days.

Why this works:

Turmeric not only relieves inflammation to help with pain but also aids in healing in many ways. First, it’s a natural anti-bacterial food, so it will help fight bacteria that are found on the skin when you have a wound and prevent bacteria from entering the body via the wound opening. Turmeric also helps clot the blood, so it will prevent the wound from bleeding further. Last, it helps the wound heal and treats the skin, so there will be little to no scarring and the skin will stay protected.

Dr. Earth Acid Lovers® fertilizer

It can be used during initial planting starting or direct transplanting, or to feed on a regular basis as plants grow.

TruBiotic® Inside. Living Fertilizer. TruBiotic® is alive with probiotic beneficial soil microbes and mycorrhizae. It is infused with a broad spectrum biological inoculant that results in greater adaptability and viability success. TruBiotic® renews and restarts tired soils. It starts new soils with life purely and naturally

DIRECTIONS FOR USE:
When potting plants, mix 1 tablespoon to each quart of potting medium.

For new plantings, add 2 cups per 5 gallons of mix that will be added to the planting hole.

After planting, add another 2 cups around the plant and mix into the soil. Apply every other month throughout the growing season.

For established plants, work 0.5-2 cups into the soil within the drip line. Can also be mixed with water for foliar feeding or deep root feeding. See product label for specific instructions.

Ingredients: Cottonseed meal, fish bone meal, alfalfa meal, feather meal, potassium sulfate, kelp meal, seaweed extract and seven strains of Pro-Biotic beneficial soil microbes, PLUS Ecto and Endo Mycorrhizae.

Changing the PH of your soil for barries

The soil pH value is a measure of soil acidity or alkalinity. Soil pH directly affects nutrient availability. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14, with 7 as neutral. Numbers less than 7 indicate acidity while numbers greater than 7 indicate alkalinity.
The pH value of soil is one of a number of environmental conditions that affects the quality of plant growth. The soil pH value directly affects nutrient availability. Plants thrive best in different soil pH ranges.
Azaleas, rhododendrons, blueberries and conifers thrive best in acid soils (pH 5.0 to 5.5).
Figs prefer slightly acidic soil (pH 5.5-6.5
Vegetables, grasses and most ornamentals do best in slightly acidic soils (pH 5.8 to 6.5). Soil pH values above or below these ranges may result in less vigorous growth and nutrient deficiencies.
Nutrients for healthy plant growth are divided into three categories: primary, secondary and micronutrients. Nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) are primary nutrients which are needed in fairly large quantities compared to the other plant nutrients. Calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg) and sulfur (S) are secondary nutrients which are required by the plant in lesser quantities but are no less essential for good plant growth than the primary nutrients. Zinc (Zn) and manganese (Mn) are micronutrients, which are required by the plant in very small amounts. Most secondary and micronutrient deficiencies are easily corrected by keeping the soil at the optimum pH value.
The major impact that extremes in pH have on plant growth is related to the availability of plant nutrients or the soil concentration of plant-toxic minerals.
In highly acid soils, aluminum and manganese can become https://www.artstation.com/marketplace/library
more available and more toxic to the plant. Also at low pH values, calcium, phosphorus and magnesium are less available to the plant. At pH values of 6.5 and above, phosphorus and most of the micronutrients become less available.
Factors Affecting Soil pH
The pH value of a soil is influenced by the kinds of parent materials from which the soil was formed. Soils developed from basic rocks generally have higher pH values than those formed from acid rocks.
Rainfall also affects soil pH. Water passing through the soil leaches basic nutrients such as calcium and magnesium from the soil. They are replaced by acidic elements such as aluminum and iron. For this reason, soils formed under high rainfall conditions are more acidic than those formed under arid (dry) conditions.
Application of fertilizers containing ammonium or urea speeds up the rate at which acidity develops. The decomposition of organic matter also adds to soil acidity.
Increasing the Soil pH
To make soils less acidic, the common practice is to apply a material that contains some form of lime. Ground agricultural limestone is most frequently used. The finer the limestone particles, the more rapidly it becomes effective. Different soils will require a different amount of lime to adjust the soil pH value. The texture of the soil, organic matter content and the plants to be grown are all factors to consider in adjusting the pH value. For example, soils low in clay require less lime than soils high in clay to make the same pH change.
Selecting a Liming Material: Homeowners can choose from four types of ground limestone products: pulverized, granular, pelletized and hydrated. Pulverized lime is finely ground. Granular and pelletized lime are less likely to clog when spread with a fertilizer spreader over turf areas. The finer the grind of the limestone the faster it will change the soil pH value. Hydrated lime should be used with caution since it has a greater ability to neutralize soil acidity than regular limestone.
Time of Application & Lime Placement: Lime needs should be determined by a soil test. For more information on soil testing, refer to HGIC 1652, Soil Testing. Soil samples should be taken in the fall for the succeeding year’s garden. If test results indicate a need for limestone, it can be applied in the fall or winter months. Generally, for best results, limestone should be applied two to three months prior to planting to allow time for it to neutralize the acidity.
The most important factor determining the effectiveness of lime is placement. Maximum contact of lime with the soil is essential. Most liming materials are only slightly soluble in water, so incorporation in the soil is a must for lime reaction. Even when properly mixed with the soil, lime will have little effect on pH if the soil is dry. Moisture is essential for the lime-soil reaction to occur. In the case of lawns, it can only be surface applied and watered into the soil.
Wood Ashes: Wood ashes can be used to raise the soil pH. They contain fairly high amounts of potassium & calcium, and small amounts of phosphate, boron and other elements. They are not as effective as limestone but with repeated use, they can drastically raise the pH value of a soil, especially if the soil is sandy in texture. Ashes should not come in contact with germinating seedlings or plant roots as they may cause damage. Spread a thin layer during the winter and incorporate into the soil in the spring. Check the soil pH annually especially if you use wood ashes. Avoid using large amounts of wood ashes because excessively high pH values and subsequent nutrient deficiencies may result. Coal ashes do not have any lime value and may actually be acidic dependent on the source.
Decreasing the Soil pH
Many ornamental plants and some fruit plants such as blueberries require slightly to strongly acid soil. These species develop iron chlorosis when grown in soils in the alkaline range. Iron chlorosis is often confused with nitrogen deficiency because the symptoms (a definite yellowing of the leaves) are similar. Iron chlorosis can be corrected by reducing the soil pH value.
Two materials commonly used for lowering the soil pH are aluminum sulfate and sulfur. These can be found at a garden supply center. Aluminum sulfate will change the soil pH instantly because the aluminum produces the acidity as soon as it dissolves in the soil. Sulfur, however, requires some time for the conversion to sulfuric acid with the aid of soil bacteria. The conversion rate of the sulfur is dependent on the fineness of the sulfur, the amount of soil moisture, soil temperature and the presence of the bacteria. Depending on these factors, the conversion rate of sulfur may be very slow and take several months if the conditions are not ideal. For this reason, most people use the aluminum sulfate.
Both materials should be worked into the soil after application to be most effective. If these materials are in contact with plant leaves as when applied to a lawn, they should be washed off the leaves immediately after application or a damaging leaf burn may result. Take extreme care not to over-apply the aluminum sulfate or the sulfur.
You can use the following tables to calculate the application rates for both the aluminum sulfate and the sulfur. The rates are in pounds per 10 square feet for a loamy soil. Reduce the rate by one-third for sandy soils and increase by one-half for clays.
Pounds of Aluminum Sulfate per 10 square feet to Lower the pH to the Recommended Level

Present pH Desired pH
6.5 6.0 5.5 5.0 4.5
8.0 1.8 2.4 3.3 4.2 4.8
7.5 1.2 2.1 2.7 3.6 4.2
7.0 0.6 1.2 2.1 3.0 3.6
6.5 0.6 1.5 2.4 2.7
6.0 0.6 1.5 2.1
Pounds of Sulfur per10 square feet to Lower the Soil pH to the Recommended Level

Present pH Desired pH
6.5 6.0 5.5 5.0 4.5
8.0 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7
7.5 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6
7.0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5
6.5 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4
6.0 0.1 0.2 0.3

Growing Figs

Essential Fertilization

The importance of regularly fertilizing fig trees, specifically in containers, using a slow-release fertilizer.

Proper Watering

Overwatering and underwatering fig trees can be problematic, especially for trees in containers. If using plastic cups use 3 0z water when needed.

Canopy Management

Dense canopies can hinder fruit formation due to lack of sunlight.

Importance of Pruning

Excessive pruning can disrupt hormonal balance, leading to more growth rather than fruiting. Maintaining apical and lateral buds is crucial for fruit formation.

Preventing Late Frosts

Highlights the detrimental impact of late frosts on fig trees’ new growth.

Maintaining Dormancy

Skipping this process can lead to a weaker tree in the spring due to increased pest pressure and insufficient care.

Sunburn Protection

The issue of sunburn in fig trees when transitioning from low-light to high-light environments. Sunburn reduces photosynthesis and can set back the growth of fig trees.

Premature Harvesting

A cautionary discussion on the harvesting of figs too early, including the advice that the indicator of fig ripeness lies in the softness of the neck, not the color, honey drops, or cracking. An emphasis is made on the importance of allowing figs to fully ripen on the tree, as store-bought figs are often picked too early, resulting in a significant loss of flavor and quality.

Proper Pot Size

A mistake often seen is keeping figs in small pots, which restricts their growth and negatively impacts fruit production.

Improper Winter Storage

Improper winter storage or inadequate cold protection can cause the branches to die back, a mistake that can be easily avoided by following recommended guidelines.

Fig trees need to be kept above 15 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter and suggests avoiding warm, unheated basements as they can lead to premature wake-up of the tree.

Choosing the Wrong Variety

Different fig varieties have different tastes and growth characteristics, so choosing the right variety for your climate and conditions is crucial to successful cultivation.

Here’s a simple 3-step process to ensure you harvest your figs at the optimal time:

Step 1: Look for figs on the tree that exhibit the visual indicators of ripeness mentioned earlier.

Step 2: Gently squeeze the necks of these figs to assess their softness.

Step 3: Pick the figs with the softest necks.

Every fig grower must learn the feel of their fig varieties’ necks when they’re ripe. Once you have mastered this skill, you can enjoy the full flavor and nutritional benefits of homegrown figs, harvested at the peak of their ripeness.

Repotting a Fig Tree

Step-by-Step Guide to Repotting a Fig Tree
Prepare the New Pot: Before removing your fig tree from its current pot, fill the new pot with enough soil so that when the tree is placed in it, the top of the root ball will sit about an inch below the rim of the pot. This extra space will be saved for amendments and a mulch layer.

Remove the Fig Tree from its Current Pot: Make sure to tip the pot sideways or upside down and let gravity do the work. Do not yank or pull too hard as this can damage the root system.
Inspect and Tease the Roots: Check the root system for any signs of root-knot nematodes. If the roots are densely tangled or circling (a condition known as being root-bound), gently tease them apart with your fingers to encourage them to grow out into the new soil. Don’t touch them otherwise.
Place the Tree in the New Pot: Gently place the tree into the new pot. The top of the root ball should be about an inch below the rim of the pot.
Backfill With Soil: Add more soil around the root ball, filling the pot until the soil level is the same as it was in the previous pot.
Firm the Soil: Firm the soil around the root ball to ensure good contact and to remove air pockets. Don’t worry, the soil should still be loose enough to allow water and air movement.

Water Thoroughly: After repotting, water the tree thoroughly, allowing the water to drain through the holes in the bottom of the pot. This will help settle the soil around the roots.
Apply Fertilizer: Once the tree has been watered, apply a slow-release fertilizer around the tree’s base. Consider other micronutrients like Silica, Sulfur, Calcium, Magnesium & other trace minerals

Add Mulch: Finally, add a layer of mulch on top of the soil. This will help retain moisture, keep the roots cool, and encourage beneficial soil organisms.
Monitor the Tree: For the first few days after repotting, keep the tree in a shaded area and keep a close eye on it for signs of transplant shock, such as wilting or dropped leaves.
Repotting a fig tree does require some effort, but it is certainly worth it when you see your tree thriving in its new home. The larger space will give the roots room to grow, resulting in a healthier, more productive tree.

Pros & Cons of Larger Pots
Room for growth: Larger pots provide more space for the plant to spread its roots, which can lead to more vigorous growth and a larger, healthier plant overall.
Heavy and difficult to move: One of the most apparent downsides of larger pots is that they can be quite heavy, especially when filled with soil and a large plant. This can make them difficult to move, which could be a problem if you need to bring plants indoors during winter or want to rearrange your plants frequently.
More soil needed: Larger pots require more soil, which can be more expensive. Also, if you don’t have a good-quality soil source, filling a large pot can become challenging.
Risk of overwatering: Larger pots hold more water, which can increase the risk of overwatering if not managed properly. This is especially a concern for plants that prefer well-draining soil and do not like to sit in water.
Fig Tree Soil Requirements
When it comes to the optimal health and productivity of your fig tree, the importance of the right soil cannot be overstated. The soil acts as the primary influence on the health of your tree as it contains its nutrients, water, and microscopic life. A fig tree’s success is largely contingent on a well-draining soil mix that supports root health and facilitates adequate nutrient and water uptake.
Fig trees, in particular, have an extensive and fibrous root system, which means they require a soil structure that supports the roots while allowing for a good amount of air and water movement. This can be achieved with a well-draining mix with slightly larger particles than those typically found in regular potting soil.
A few popular soil choices for fig trees include compost, worm castings, peat moss, and coco coir. While these materials provide an excellent base, they are also quite dense and can sometimes retain too much moisture, leading to waterlogged conditions that can result in root rot. To counteract this and improve aeration, mix in other materials such as vermiculite, perlite, small pieces of bark, shredded bark, or rice hulls.
So, you may ask, how can we strike a balance? The goal is to create a soil mix that, when watered, retains just the right amount of moisture while still allowing the excess water to drain away and air to reach the roots. This balance helps prevent waterlogging and ensures the roots remain healthy and free from rot.
Pro-Mix is a well-liked commercial option that provides an excellent, well-draining environment for fig trees. However, feel free to experiment with creating your own mix using some of the materials mentioned above until you find what works best for you and your tree.
To summarize, the ideal soil for a fig tree in a pot is a well-draining mix that balances moisture retention with aeration. Ensuring you have the correct soil type will set your fig tree up for success and contribute to a bountiful harvest.
Up next, we’ll discuss the best fertilizers for your newly repotted fig tree, so keep reading!
Best Fertilizer for Fig Trees in Pots
After successfully repotting your fig tree, it’s essential to provide it with the necessary nutrients for optimum growth and fruit production. A balanced fertilizer can significantly aid in this regard.
Fig trees thrive when given a well-balanced NPK fertilizer. The acronym NPK stands for Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K), which are the primary nutrients required by plants. A 10-10-10 or a 10-20-10 fertilizer would be ideal as it covers all the necessary nutrients in balanced quantities.
To make things simple, I recommend slow-release fertilizers because they gradually provide nutrients to the plant over an extended period, rather than delivering them all at once. This ensures your fig tree will receive a steady supply of nutrients throughout the growing season.
In addition to a well-balanced NPK fertilizer, fig trees also benefit from specific micronutrients. Silica, found in vermiculite or diatomaceous earth, can be an excellent addition. Consider using green sand or rock dust, which provides a broad range of micronutrients in higher quantities.
Fig trees have a particular liking for magnesium, sulfur, and calcium. These nutrients can be added using gypsum, oyster shell, or lime. If you conduct an analysis of a fig tree’s leaf or the fruits, you will find that these nutrients are typically found in higher quantities in the leaves and fruits.
To read more about fertilizing fig trees, read this detailed article, here:
In the next section, we will look at the correct watering technique and frequency for your fig tree in a pot.
How Much Water Does a Fig Tree Need?
Watering is an essential aspect of caring for your fig tree, particularly when it’s grown in a pot. Getting the balance right can be a bit tricky – too little water and the tree may dry out and wilt, too much water and the tree might suffer from root rot. Let’s delve into the specifics of how much water your fig tree needs.
Fig trees prefer evenly moist soil, but it’s important not to overwater them. Overwatering can cause root rot and lead to the leaves turning yellow and dropping off. At the same time, allowing the soil to dry out completely between watering can stress the tree and stunt its growth. After all, water is the on or off switch of a fig tree’s growth.
During the warmer months of the growing season, I water my container fig trees twice a day for a total of about half of a gallon to a gallon of water every day per 5-gallon-sized pot. If rain is in the forecast, that may decrease my watering quantities and frequency significantly. During September temperatures cool down in the Philadelphia area and rain is more frequent. At this time, I may not water at all. Keeping an eye on the temperature and rainfall is critical for achieving consistently moist soil moisture.
When you do water your fig tree, make sure you water it thoroughly. This means watering until you see water draining out of the bottom of the pot. Thorough watering encourages deep root growth, which in turn will help the tree be more drought-tolerant.
It’s also essential to have a pot with good drainage to ensure excess water can escape. This helps to prevent the soil from becoming waterlogged and reduces the chances of root rot.
For more on watering fig trees, read this in-depth article, here:
The next section will explore transplant shock and how to prevent it. Being aware of this potential pitfall can save you from potential plant heartache down the line.
Transplant Shock – A Common Mistake to Avoid
Transplant shock can be one of the most significant risks your fig tree faces during the repotting process. It’s a term that refers to a variety of stress-related symptoms, such as wilting, yellowing, or dropped leaves, that your plant might exhibit after it’s been moved to a new environment. The good news is that transplant shock can be minimized, or even prevented, with careful repotting practices. Here’s how:
Be gentle with the roots: Fig trees have a fibrous, delicate root system. During the repotting process, try to maintain as much of the original soil around the roots as possible to prevent root damage. If the tree is root-bound, gently loosen the outer roots before planting it in the new pot.
Ensure proper root-to-soil contact: After placing the tree in its new pot, pack the soil firmly around the root ball to eliminate air pockets. This helps the roots make good contact with the soil, enhancing their ability to absorb water and nutrients and reducing the risk of transplant shock.
Water correctly: After repotting, water the tree thoroughly to settle the soil and hydrate the roots. However, be careful not to overwater, as fig trees are susceptible to root rot.

Use mulch: A layer of mulch on top of the soil can help regulate soil temperature, retain moisture, and improve the soil’s overall environment, reducing the chances of transplant shock.
Limit initial sun exposure: After repotting, place the fig tree in a location with filtered light or partial shade for the first week or so. Gradually acclimate the tree to more sunlight to avoid sun stress on top of transplant shock.
You’re Now Ready to Repot Your Fig Tree
Repotting your fig tree is an essential task to maintain its health and productivity. As a grower, you have the power to create the perfect environment for your fig tree to thrive. Through correct pot selection, the right soil mix, balanced fertilization, and careful watering practices, you can ensure your tree will grow vigorously, providing you with a bountiful harvest for years to come.
With the comprehensive guide provided in this article, you now have all the tools you need to confidently repot your fig tree, setting it up for successful growth.

Black Mission Fig

Black mission fig trees are ideal for the environment in Tucson. They are drought-tolerant and produce a significant amount of fruit after about three years of initial growth. If you’re considering a black mission fig tree for your home, talk to your landscaping company’s certified arborist to find out how if this kind of tree is right for your landscaping and how you can help it thrive.

Choosing a Season and Location

Typically, black mission fig trees should be planted in the fall or early spring. This will give them an opportunity to establish themselves before summer temperatures soar. These trees do best in an area of the yard in which they will get a lot of sunshine. Your landscaper can help you choose a location that is both healthy for your tree and that complements your existing landscape design.

Watering

Although black mission fig trees are drought-resistant, they will need to be watered to thrive. During the summer, they should be irrigated once per week. You may need to increase watering during extreme heat waves. During the other seasons of the year, watering every two weeks should be sufficient. However, if unusually warm weather occurs, consider increasing your watering schedule.

Maintenance

As with all types of trees, working with a certified arborist is the best way to keep your black mission fig tree healthy. The tree will benefit from light fertilization during its growing season, which is May, June, and July. About half a pound of nitrogen fertilizer used over that period of time and watered in should be sufficient. An arborist can also prune your tree as necessary to ensure it continues to thrive.

Root Fig Cuttings

Clean Tree Pot with boiling water rinse

Grow Medium: Coconut core (use purified water) and pearlite

Wash (and scrub) cutting

Wrap parafilm/grafting tape around the top half of the cutting that will be above the soil line. Ensure your cutting has at least 2 nodes above soil line and 2 below.

Make a fresh cut at the base of the cutting and score the bottom sides.

Dip the bottom of the cutting in rooting hormone like clonex.

75 to 77 degrees is great rooting tempter.

70 -80% humidity is best

Neem Oil

Neem oil is a natural remedy that can be used as a soil drench to control pests and diseases on plants. The plant absorbs the neem oil through its roots, which helps protect it from pests and fungus. Water plants with neem oil by adding it to your watering can or using it as a soil drench:

Neem oil can be used in aeroponics to control pests and prevent some bugs from evolving:

Mix the solution: A common ratio for mixing neem oil with water is:
½ tsp Neem Oil per 16 oz spray bottle & add 2-3 drops dish soap. Saturate leaves when lights are off. Be sure to apply under leaf.

ow to use: Mix neem oil concentrate with water in a spray bottle, and test it on a small area of the plant before spraying the entire crop. Turn off grow lights before applying neem oil, and leave them off for at least an hour after. Reapply neem oil weekly until there are no signs of pests.
Benefits: Neem oil is a natural pesticide that can kill caterpillars, mites, aphids, thrips, whiteflies, grasshoppers, and scale insects. It can also prevent some bugs from evolving by causing them to molt when they eat the plant.

Precautions: Neem oil can damage plants by burning their foliage, so don’t use it on recent transplants or stressed plants. Wear gloves and a mask to protect your skin and lungs.
Neem oil products

Some recommend buying neem oil concentrate instead of a pre-mixed solution because it lasts longer. Look for a brand that uses a cold-pressed process to extract the oil and retain Azadirachtin.

Soil drench: Here are some tips for using neem oil for soil drenching.1–2 tablespoons per gallon of water, or 1–2 teaspoons per quart of water. You can also add a small amount of dish soap to help distribute the oil in the water.
Test on a small area: Before treating the entire plant, apply the mixture to a small test area.
Use warm water: Warm water is less likely to solidify the soil, but it’s still important to avoid water that’s too hot, which plants may not like.
Shake the bottle: Shake the bottle often while applying to keep the oil distributed throughout the mixture.
Apply regularly: For prevention, apply every 3 weeks, or every week for infestations.
Refrigerate: Remaining undiluted neem oil can be refrigerated for up to a year to slow its degradation.
Neem oil can control many types of pests, including ants, beetles, caterpillars, crickets, earwigs, grasshoppers, lacebugs, mealybugs, mites, and more. sticide, killing insects that feed on the plant’s foliage.
Foliar spray
Mist the entire plant with neem oil, making sure to cover the tops and undersides of the leaves and stems. This method is effective against pests and diseases.
Here are some tips for using neem oil:
When to use
Use neem oil on a dry, windless day when temperatures are at least 40°F. Avoid spraying if a freeze is expected.
Apply neem oil in the evening to avoid potential leaf burn, says Bunting.
What type of neem oil to use
For young insects, use cold-pressed neem oil. For adult insects and eggs, use clarified hydrophobic extract of neem oil.
How often to use
Reapply the mixture as needed, following the label directions.
Safety
Wear gloves and a mask to protect your skin and lungs, as some people are sensitive to direct contact with neem oil.
Some sensitive plants that shouldn’t be treated with neem oil, for example, you should never use it on young or dehydrated plants.
Additionally, avoid using neem oil on peppers, beans, or peas, as well as on herbs, including basil, dill, cilantro, oregano, parsley, and thyme. “Also avoid leafy crops such as arugula, lettuce and spinach and avoid the cabbage family, including, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, and kale,” says Bunting.

Fig Cuttings-The Direct Potting method

The Direct Potting method is easy to follow, even for beginners, and does not require misting systems, humidity chambers, or domes. What separates this method from others is that you’re “directly potting” the cutting into a 1-gallon-sized container. Therefore, up-potting during the rooting process can be avoided.
Here’s a step-by-step guide to using the Direct Potting method:
Prepare your cutting: Select cuttings that have at least a couple of nodes. Make a cut approximately 1/4 inch below a bud, and create a long cut or a “score” along one edge of the cutting, where more roots are likely to form.
Wrap the cutting: To prevent the cutting from drying out, wrap the portion that will be exposed above the soil with a material like Parafilm, stretching it as you apply it. This will allow the buds to easily push through the material.
Prepare the soil: Use a well-draining potting mix, which can simply be a mix of 60% peat and 40% perlite. The soil should be damp but not overly wet.
Plant the cutting: Insert the cutting into the soil, making sure that at least one node is below the soil level. Avoid planting the cutting too deep into the pot, as the bottom portion of the pot can become too wet and cause the cutting to rot.
Water
Water the cutting thoroughly, and add a layer of mulch to help retain moisture.
Keep in the shade
Keep the pot in the shade until the cutting is rooted.
Fertilize
Fertilize the fig tree to provide any missing nutrients.

Pruning Fig Trees

Elecampane root & Marshmallow root Cough Tonic

This lung tonic is a strong decoction of marshmallow & elecampane roots. The shelf life is relatively short, so drink this honeyed decoction often as needed.

I’ve had syrups like this last in my fridge for months, though I give the syrup I sell a 4 week expiration date to be on the safe side.

Dosage:
Shake Well! Separation is natural.
Add 1 to 3 tablespoons to still or sparkling water, tea, or whatever you are sipping.
3 tablespoons or so in a quart of warm lemon water, first thing in the morning.

Ingredients:
1/2 ounce fresh or dried marshmallow root
1 ounce fresh or dried elecampane root
2.5 ounces fresh baby ginger
1 oz herbs = 1 quart of water so, 4 quarts of water = 1 gallon of water
2 cups honey
optional: licorice and fennel seeds

Instructions:

Toss coarsely chopped roots into water and bring to a boil. Let simmer at least 20 minutes, lid off, allowing water to evaporate, ideally until water volume is reduced by half. Strain the decoction and pour into a jar to cool and measure volume; add equal volume of raw honey and stir to combine. Store in fridge up to one month.

Comfrey Salve

Comfrey salve can help with painful muscle and joint conditions as well as bruises and fractures. It also smell great!

Ingredients

2 tbsp. comfrey leaf, dried
2 tbsp. olive oil 2 tbsp. coconut oil
1/8 tsp vitamin E oil
5 to 10 drops peppermint essential oil
1 tbsp. beeswax

Instructions

Create a double boiler by placing a glass measuring cup in a saucepan, on top of a canning jar ring. Place the herbs in a cloth tea bag. Pour the oils over the tea bag. Simmer on medium heat for 30 to 45 minutes. Press out the herbs to release their herbal goodness into the oil.
Add 1/8 tsp vitamin E oil and the peppermint essential oil to the comfrey mixture.
Place back into the pot and place the beeswax into the oils. Once the wax has melted, stir with a clean popsicle stick or toothpick. Pour the liquid into a jar or tin to harden.

Comfrey Poultice

A Comfrey Poultice for Pain Relief

One of the easiest herbal remedies you can make with fresh or dried herbs is a poultice. This topical remedy is an effective remedy for bug bites, pain, muscle cramps, and more. You could crush the leaves and blend with flour and place in a jar to use as needed. I would freeze this.
Yield: 3–4 poultice packs

Ingredients:

About a dozen fresh comfrey leaves (stem included)

1 cup water
2 handfuls flour or French green clay
A few old dish cloths (or another small piece of cloth you’re no longer using)

Directions:

Use a knife to coarsely chop your comfrey leaves.
Place leaves in a blender. Add water.
Blend for about 30 seconds, until the water and leaves have combined. The consistency should be a somewhat chunky paste.
Put this freshly-blended paste in a bowl. Add a handful of flour or clay to the paste and stir it in with your hands.

Place a cup of comfrey poultice in the middle of your cloth and flatten it down with a spatula.
Now fold in the sides of your cloth and wrap it around the comfrey. Repeat this process until you’ve wrapped up all of your comfrey paste in cloth. You can now either use these poultices fresh or store them in your freezer.

When storing them in the freezer, place a piece of wax paper between each poultice (so it’s easier to separate them later). Now place your poultices in a plastic gallon freezer bag for storage.
Note: once you’ve used a poultice once, you can compost the herbs. The cloth can be washed and then re-used.

Calendula oil infusion for sunburn and bug bites

Herb-to-Oil Ratio
You can prepare the Calendula oil infusion using two different approaches: folk and weight-to-volume.
With the folk method, loosely pack your herbs into a jar, leaving an inch of space at the top.

Pour oil ( like sesame, grapeseed, or jojoba ) over the plants until they are completely submerged under oil. Fill oil nearly to the jar brim to reduce oxidation of the oil and molding of the plant matter.

In the weight-to-volume method, herbs and oil are typically combined in a 1:5 ratio, but I find that 1:10 allows for easier handling. To get these proportions, use ten times the amount of oil (measured by volume) for every one part of herb (measured by weight). For example: 25 grams of herbal material to 250 milliliters of oil.

Choosing an Extraction Method
Oil infusions can be prepared with or without heat. The heatless process, or maceration, is slower but doesn’t damage the delicate constituents in the plants or carrier oils. You can use heat to speed up the infusion process, reducing the extraction time from weeks to only a few hours. However, heated methods require more mindfulness to ensure the oil doesn’t get ruined. Resinous herbs like Calendula are best extracted using heat and longer processing time.
Maceration Method
Place the sealed jar in a sunny window. Cover with a paper bag in order to protect from damaging UV light. Shake daily for four to six weeks.

Diarrhea Relief Infusion

Ingredients:

½ teaspoon dried chamomile flowers,
½ teaspoon dried wild strawberry leaves,
½ teaspoon dried raspberry leaves,
1 cup of boiling water

Preparation:

Mix chamomile flowers, wild strawberry, and raspberry leaves in a mug.
Add 1 cup of boiling water and steep for 15 minutes.

Consume this infusion 2-3 times a day for effective relief from moderate diarrhea symptoms.

Herb Use & Dosage Guide

Each herb has a broad range of applications…
Dosage Guide Note
1 dropperful = 30 drops = 0.75ml (approx)
(Note: a dropperful doesn’t actually fill the whole dropper, it’s one pump of the bulb!).

Aloe vera is a medicinal plant that grows in hot climates such as California, New Mexico, and the Caribbean. It contains more than 75 active ingredients, including enzymes, amino acids, vitamins, and minerals, some of which could make it useful for treating diseases.

This plant-based remedy contains chemicals that reduce swelling in the skin, relieve redness and scaling, soothe itchy skin, and promote the growth of new skin cells. These properties make aloe vera useful for treating skin conditions such as: Acne, Cold sores (herpes), Cuts and scrapes, Insect bites and stings, Minor burns and sunburn and Psoriasis. . Aloe juice is also promoted as a natural remedy for diabetes, heartburn, and inflammatory bowel syndrome (IBS). When taken by mouth, aloe vera may help lower cholesterol and blood sugar and ease heartburn.

Alfalfa (Medicago sativa)
Alfalfa is rich in minerals and healthy compounds, and contains a high amount of protein. It has been used to treat morning sickness, nausea, kidney issues and urinary tract discomfort. It also acts as a diuretic and a light stimulant.
1-3 ml, 3 times daily

Ashwagandhan Nurtures your nervous system and increases your vitality. Consumption with alcohol, other drugs or natural health products with sedative properties is not recommended. 1-4 ml, 3 times daily

Basil (Ocimum basilicum)
This staple spaghetti topper actually has a range of medicinal uses and can help with a lack of appetite, excess gas and cuts.

Burdock Root For detox and pain associated with rheumatism. May cause allergic reactions in people sensitive to plants in the asteraceae family.
1-4 ml, 3 times daily

Calendula Anti-inflammatory and immune-modulating. Do not use if you are allergic to plants of the Asteraceae/Compositae/Daisy family.
1-4 ml, 3 times daily

Chamomile Reduce gastrointestinal complaints and ease restlessness and nervous irritability. Do not use if you are allergic to plants of the Asteraceae/Compositae/Daisy family. Can relieve skin inflammation and irritations.
1-4 ml, 3 times daily

Dandelion Root Stimulates bile flow (helps with constipation) and improves digestion.
2.5 – 5ml, 3 times daily

Echinacea The perennial Echinacea plant is said to be a powerful immune booster and is used to combat symptoms of colds, flu, and infections. Antimicrobial infection fighter. Consult a health care practitioner before use if you are taking
immunosuppressants or if you have a progressive systemic disease such as tuberculosis, leukosis, collagenosis or multiple sclerosis. Do not use if you are allergic to plants of the Asteraceae/Compositae/Daisy family.
1-4 ml, 3 times daily

Elecampane root is used for asthma, bronchitis, intestinal worms, and many other conditions, but there is no good scientific evidence to support its use. It is also used to prevent coughing, especially coughing caused by tuberculosis; and as an expectorant to help loosen phlegm, so it can be coughed up more easily.

Feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium)
The leaves of the feverfew can be used in teas and chewed to relieve headaches. As a natural anti-inflammatory, it is said to help with arthritis and a variety of skin conditions.

Lavender
Simply the smell of lavender has been shown to help people relax. It can be used as an antiseptic and is useful for skin inflammation, insomnia and anxiety.

Lemon Balm Mild sedative and calming agent. Lemon Balm may interfere with the action of thyroid hormones. Caution
advised for those with hypothyroid.
2 – 6 ml, 3 times daily

Licorice Root For respiratory and gastrointestinal conditions. Not suggested for everyday long-term use. Prolonged use in conjunction with thiazide
and loop diuretics and cardiac glycosides is contraindicated and liquorice should not be administered in combination with spironolactone or amiloride. This herb is not recommended
for those taking cardiac glycosides, hypotensive agents, corticoids, diuretic drugs, or monoamine oxidase inhibitors. Discontinue use at least 2 weeks before surgery.
1-3 ml, 3 times daily

Marigold (Tagetes)
Marigold has a wide range of uses, including treating acne, sunburn, ulcers, digestive problems, insect bites and more.

Marshmallow root is a perennial herb. Marshmallow root contains mucilage, a gummy substance that forms a gel when mixed with water. This gel can be used to: Soothe irritated mucous membranes, Reduce irritation in the throat and stomach, and Soothe chapped skin. Some potential benefits of marshmallow root include: Relieving coughs, Improving dry mouth, Protecting against ulcers, Soothing skin irritation, and Healing wounds. Marshmallow root is generally well tolerated in adults, but some people may experience rare allergic reactions. Anecdotal reports also suggest that taking marshmallow root may cause upset stomach and dizziness.

Marshmallow root can be used in a variety of ways, including: Herbal syrups, Infusion blends, Body care products, Gargling, and Throat soothing.

Milky Oat A sedative tonic to strengthen your nervous system, especially after periods of prolonged stress
1 – 5 ml, 3 times daily

Motherwort A sedative for the relief of nervousness and restlessness. Consult a health care practitioner before use if you have a heart condition or are taking heart medications. Consumption with alcohol or other medications with sedative
properties is not recommended.
1-4 ml, 3 times daily

Mullein Cough remedy and anti-inflammatory
2.5 – 5 ml, 3 times daily

Nettle Leaf Helps relieve seasonal allergy symptoms. Excessive doses may keep you awake at night, nettle seeds are stimulants.
1.5 to 4 ml, 3 times daily

Nettle Seed Restore balance to the adrenals.
2 ml, 3 times daily

Oatstraw Regular consumption of oatstraw tea or supplements can help alleviate symptoms of PMS, improve mood, and enhance overall energy levels. By nourishing the adrenal glands, oatstraw can also help in managing stress and reducing cortisol levels, making it an excellent natural remedy for hormonal imbalances.

Pansy Wild (Viola tricolor)

Another anti-inflammatory herb, the wild tansy can be used to ease eczema and skin blemishes and help loosen phlegm. It was also believed to help the heart, which is
why it is sometimes called heartsease.

Parsley (Petroselinum crispum)
Useful for so much more than plate decoration, parsley can treat bad breath, gas, inflammation, and even has anti-cancer properties.
Peppermint (Mentha × Piperita)
Peppermint should be a go-to for any stomach issues. It has also been shown to help with alertness and headaches.

Red Clover Relief to inflammatory skin conditions. Consult a healthcare practitioner if you currently have or have previously had hormonal sensitive conditions such as breast cancer, uterine cancer, ovarian cancer, endometriosis or uterine fibroids
2 – 4 ml, 3 times daily

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)
Rosemary is one of the best herbs to improve concentration, memory and mood. It is also great for wound healing, hair growth, and bad breath.

St Johns Wort
Relief of restlessness and nervousness. Consult a health care practitioner: if you experience sleep disturbances; if you are taking conventional medicine such as contraceptives, HIV-1 protease inhibitors, nonnucleoside reverse transcriptase inhibitors, immunosuppresants, anticoagulants, digoxin, theophylline, serotonergic antidepressants, migraine therapies, SSRIs and/or anti-epilepsy drugs; Do not use if pregnant or breastfeeding. Discontinue use at least 2 weeks before surgery.
2 – 4 ml, 3 times daily.

Sage (Salvia officinalis)
The name Sage is derived from a word that means “to heal” or “to save”, reflecting its historical use as a medicinal herb. It is useful for a variety of ailments, including mouth and throat inflammations, bloating, heartburn and depression.

Thyme (Thymus vulgaris)
The active phenol in thyme is thymol, known to be a potent antiseptic. It is useful for coughs, sore throat, tooth decay, congestion and indigestion.

Willow Bark Relieves headaches and back pain. Do not use: if you are taking blood thinners or herbs or medications containing acetylsalicylic acid (ASA) or other salicylates; if you are allergic to acetylsalicylic acid (ASA) or other salicylates; if you are pregnant or breastfeeding.
3 – 6 ml, 3 times daily

Wild Tansy can be used to ease eczema and skin blemishes and help loosen phlegm. It was also believed to help the heart.

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) has many medicinal uses, including:

Bleeding: Yarrow can stop bleeding from wounds and cuts. The plant’s leaves can be mashed with water and applied to wounds.

Burns and sores: Yarrow can be used as a poultice for burns and open sores.

Fevers and colds: Yarrow tea can help with fevers and colds.

Toothaches: Yarrow can help with toothaches.

Anxiety and insomnia: Yarrow can act as a mild sedative to help with anxiety or insomnia.

Inflammation: Yarrow can help with inflammation.

Multiple sclerosis: A randomized controlled trial found that people with multiple sclerosis who took 250 or 500 mg of yarrow daily for a year had fewer yearly relapses.

Chest congestion and sinus issues: Yarrow tea can help with chest congestion and sinus issues.

Yarrow can interact with some medications, including blood thinners, stomach acid reducers, high blood pressure medications, and sleepiness-inducing drugs. Yarrow is also likely unsafe to take during pregnancy because it can affect the menstrual cycle and may cause miscarriage.

6 Mushroom Proactive immunity defense
2 – 4 ml, 3 times daily

Dosage By Age & Weight

1 | AGE

Children should use a reduced

dosage (see next page) and

some seniors may also find a

smaller amount effective.

3 | WEIGHT

Standard dosages are based on

a 150lb adult. If you weigh more

or less, you might need to

adjust the dosage accordingly

up or down.

5 | GOALS

Someone working through

deeper physical conditions may

use more tincture than

someone seeking subtle effects

on the mind, emotions, or spirit.

2 | SENSITIVITY

Someone who tends to be

sensitive to herbs or medicines

in general will often need less of

an herb to have an effect.

4 | YOUR HEALTH

We always suggest working with

a herbalist or your health

practitioner if you have

underlying health conditions.

6 | CONDITION

Acute conditions like the flu or a

headache often require a more

frequent dosage (i.e. every

hour) but for a short-term

period (i.e. 1-2 days)

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CHILDRENS DOSAGES

There are two formulas that are widely used to calculate

children’s dosages: Clark’s Rule and Young’s Rule.

(We prefer Clark’s Rule, as body weight is more specific)

Clarks’ Rule:

Adult Dose X (Weight ÷ 150) = Childs Dose

Example: 11 year old girl who is 70 Lbs, and the adult dose is 30 drops

30 Drops X (70 ÷ 150) = Child’s Dose

30 Drops X (.47) = Child’s Dose

Child’s dose = 14.1 Drops (Round to 14 Drops),

Young’s Rule

[Age / (Age + 12)] x Recommended Adult Dose = Child’s Dose

Example: 11-year-old girl and you’re working with that same 30 drops, 3

times a day adult dose:

30 drops x (11 ÷ (11+12)) = child’s dose

30 drops x (11 ÷ 23) = child’s dose

30 drops x .48 = child’s dose

Child’s dose = 15 drops, 3 times a day

Making Herbal Tinctures

How to make herbal tinctures (“folk method”): 1 to 5 maceration (vodka) ratio. This makes a 1:5 ratio.

Gather your herb.
Fill it loosely into a jar with a screw top (i.e. mason jar).
Pour alcohol over your herb until it covers the herb about 1/2” or so. You will notice air bubbles forming. These need to be removed.

For dry herbs use 40-50% alcohol (80-100 proof),
for fresh herbs use 60-95% alcohol (120-190 proof).

Plants with a high water content (i.e. fresh roots) should use the higher alcohol percent (i.e. 95%). Vodka or grain alcohol are good choices because of their neutral flavor.

3.5. Optional step – blend the alcohol and herb together to increase surface area exposure for the herb.

Place the jar away from light (i.e. in a cupboard), in a cool, dry location for 6 weeks.
Shake or stir the tincture every day if possible.
If after a day or two the plant material expanded and is no longer submerged in the alcohol you may need to add more alcohol. Especially look for this with dry roots and fruits (may need to cover them with 1-2” or more alcohol from the beginning).
After 4-6 weeks strain out the herbal material and store your tincture for use!

It’s possible to get much more detailed with your tincture-making, but the above method will work pretty well for most herbs. If you want to be more precise, you can measure the weight of the herbs and the volume of the “menstrum” (alcohol). You can also look up a recipe to find an “herb:menstrum” ratio for the plant you’re working with. For example, an recipe might say to tincture a fresh plant at “1:2, 80%,” which means for every 1 part of plant material by weight (grams or ounces), use 2 parts of menstrum by volume (milliliters or fluid ounces), using 80% alcohol.

With more potent herbs it’s best to be precise and follow a specific recipe in order to take a more precise dose of the final product. For most mild herbs, there is a great deal of room for experimentation and error – herbs like peppermint or chamomile have a wide therapeutic dose range, so it doesn’t matter so much what the relative concentration of the tincture is.

The most important thing in terms of safety is to prevent fermentation, mold or harmful bacteria growth by using a high enough alcohol percent. To be on the safe side, the final alcohol percent should be above 30%. When you use fresh herbs that contain water, the final alcohol percent will be lower than the alcohol you add in, as the water in the herb will dilute the alcohol. That’s why you need to start with a higher percent of alcohol with fresh herbs. If you want to be very precise, set aside some of the fresh herb, weigh it, let it dry, and then weigh it again to find out how much water was in the herb.

How to an Make Herbal Oil Infusion

How to an Make Herbal Oil Infusion

Supplies needed
Herbs. Dried herbs are best for a slow cold infusion. Fresh herbs, wilted herbs, or dry herbs can be used with the quick heat method.

A carrier oil of choice, such as jojoba oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, or other.

A glass container with a tight-fitting lid. Use something as small as a half-pint mason jar, or as large as a half-gallon jar! The size simply depends on how much herb infused oil you intend to make.

Fine-mesh colander, reusable nut milk bag and/or cheesecloth for straining.

Storage containers for finished oil, such as glass jars or amber dropper bottles.

Optional: a slow-cooker or double boiler and probe thermometer (only if you intend to use the quick heat method)

Should I wash herbs before drying them?

It depends. Some gardeners and herbalists avoid washing herbs before drying because the added moisture may prevent them from drying properly and potentially lead to mold. This is especially a concern when air-drying herbs, but shouldn’t be an issue when using a food dehydrator. If herbs are particularly dirty, the extra step of washing them may be preferred. Shake them out well (or even toss them in a salad spinner) to remove excess water after washing. I personally only wash herbs that I plan to use in cooking.

Option 1: Slow Cold Infusion

The first option is the easiest, but does require a little patience: simply allow dry herbs to soak in oil at room temperature for several weeks. Known as slow or cold infusion, this method relies on a passive process to gently extract beneficial compounds from the herbs. Since it’s not exposed to heat, the maximum therapeutic properties of both the oil and herbs are retained. The herbs should soak in oil for a minimum of 2 or 3 weeks, up to 4 to 6 weeks for the most medicinal oil possible.

Directions

Start by filling a clean glass container at least two-thirds full with dry herbs. Feel free to fill the container even more to create a stronger infusion. Yes, you can mix several different types of herbs together if you’d like!

Pour oil over the dry herbs until they’re completely covered by at least an inch or two of oil (though they may float, that’s okay). If you wish to get more technical and measure, aim for an herb to oil ratio of about 1 part dry plant material by weight to 5 parts oil by volume. For example, 1 ounce of herbs to 5 fluid ounces of oil.

Add a lid and set the jar in a dark place to infuse for several weeks. Some herbalists like to use the “solar infusion” method, steeping the herbs and oil in a sunny window to garner luminary warmth and energy. Yet others say that sunlight can reduce the potency of herbs or make oil go rancid more quickly. So, it’s a bit of a controversial topic! We’ve done both methods and never had oil spoil on us.

Though not necessary, you can give the jar of oil a gentle shake or tilt from time to time. This is especially helpful during the first few days to rotate/submerge any “floaters” on top.

Occasionally, condensation may develop near the top portion of the jar. If you notice this, simply open the jar and wipe it away with a clean paper towel.

When the time is up, strain the herbs from the oil. I place a nut milk bag or layer of cheesecloth inside of a fine colander perched on top of a bowl, and then pour the oil through both. After it sits to drain a bit, I wring out any leftover oil from the herbs by squeezing the nut milk bag or cloth. Compost the leftover herbs.

Transfer the finished herb infused oil into a clean storage container with a lid, and store it in a cool dark place. I like to use amber dropper bottles for face and body oil, storing the excess in a larger jar in the fridge for refills. The dark glass protects the medicinal herb oil from light degradation, so I can safely keep it out on my bathroom counter too. (See shelf life information below.)

Option 2: Quick Heat Method

The quick heat method is a simple, fast way to create herb infused oils without waiting for them to passively steep. Though we’ll be lightly heating the herbs and oil, it’s important to keep everything at 110°F or below to avoid degrading the quality of the oil and herbs. It’s okay to use fresh, wilted, or dry herbs with this method.

Directions

Start by chopping up the herbs you wish to infuse. Smaller pieces = more surface area = stronger infusion.

Add the herbs to a slow cooker (crock pot) or the top portion of a double boiler on the stove. If you don’t have a double boiler, create your own by nesting a glass bowl or smaller pot inside of a larger pot of water below. The top/inner pot should touch the water, but not rest all the way on the bottom of the lower pot.

Pour over enough oil to submerge and cover the herbs by at least an inch or two. It isn’t necessary to measure, but you can if you wish. For fresh herbs, aim for an herb-to-oil ratio of 1 part fresh herbs by weight to 3 parts oil by volume (e.g. 1 ounce fresh herbs to 3 fluid ounces oil). For dry herbs, use 1 part dry plant material to to 5 parts oil by volume (e.g. 1 ounce dried herbs to 5 fluid ounces oil). For wilted herbs, use a ratio of 1:4.

Gently heat the oil, but do not boil it. Between 95 and 110°F is ideal. Check the temperature with a probe thermometer and adjust the heat if needed. In a crockpot, use the lowest temperature or “keep warm” setting.

Allow the oil and herbs to simmer together for at least 30 minutes, up to several hours for a more potent infusion. (Some medicinal herb oil recipes call for 12 to 24 hours in a slow cooker). Important: To prevent spoilage, leave the lid off so moisture from the fresh herbs can evaporate and escape. The more fresh the herbs, the longer I suggest lightly heating to ensure water content is reduced.

Finally, strain and store the oil as explained in the “slow infusion method” section above.

One time we do use the quick heat method is to make hemp-infused oil, shown in our makeshift double boiler (a smaller pot nested inside a larger pot with water in the bottom).

A fine sieve metal strainer with a layer of cheesecloth over the mesh is positioned over a glass bowl.

We sometimes use organic cheesecloth to strain herb oils, but mostly use reusable/washable nut milk bags nowadays!

How long does herb infused oil last?

The shelf life of herbal oils varies depending on the type of carrier oil used, if the herbs were adequately dried before steeping, and how the oil is stored. Most herb infused oils should stay good for about a year when made with dry herbs and stored sealed in a cool, dark place.

Some oils have a naturally shorter shelf life than others (such as grape seed and sweet almond oil), while jojoba oil can stay good for 5 years or more! Furthermore, refrigeration may be recommended for some oils. Refer to the oil manufacturer’s instructions, and see the expected shelf life of various carrier oils here.

If the herbal oil is used to make salve, lip balm, lotion, soap, or other goodies, the shelf life is extended since other preservatives are often used in those items. Beeswax is an excellent natural preservative for example!

Visible mold and/or sour, putrid, or otherwise “off” odors are signs that oil has gone bad or rancid and should be discarded. However, cloudiness is not usually a sign of spoilage (unless accompanied by a bad smell) and can be common in herb infused oils.

Ways to use herb infused oil

Here are some general ideas and ways to use medicinal herbal oils, but use your noggin’! Be sure the use is appropriate and safe for the type of carrier oil and herbs you used.
As body oil or massage oil
Facial moisturizer – just a few drops will do!
Work a few drops through damp hair to soften hair and smooth split ends.

As an ingredient in other homemade body care products like salve, soap, cream, lotion, lip balm, ointment, or other natural skincare products. Check out our lip balm and salve recipes here! For more ideas, I highly recommend this organic body care recipe book. It’s loaded with awesome recipes!

If you used an edible carrier oil, you can use your herbal oil as a tasty marinade, salad dressing or in other culinary creations.

As part of your oil cleansing method

As spot treatment directly on scars, stretch marks, varicose veins, or other areas of concern.

To soothe rashes, bug bites eczema, psoriasis, scrapes, burns, or other skin irritations

On cracked heels, cuticles, feet, dry elbows, or other rough patches of skin.

On chapped or cracked lips, or around your nose when it’s chaffed.

To treat cradle cap on babies (check your carrier oil safety first).

To remove makeup (but avoid contact with sensitive areas around your eyes)

Calendula-infused oil turned into homemade calendula salve. This stuff does WONDERS for the skin!

Easy Herb-Infused Olive Oil

Yield: 2 cups

Want to take your favorite fresh herbs and create something with truly spectacular flavor? Make easy herb-infused olive oil at home with these easy to follow instructions.

Ingredients

For Soft Herbs like Basil, Cilantro, and Parsley:

2 cups pure olive oil

1 cup fresh herb leaves, stems removed

For Woody Herbs like Rosemary, Winter Savory, and Thyme:

2 cups pure olive oil

4 cups fresh herb leaves, stems removed

Instructions

Add herb leaves and oil to a blender and blend until completely smooth.
Add mixture to a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Simmer for 45 seconds.
Strain into a bowl through a fine mesh strainer or chinois without pushing down on the mixture.
Strain again through a paper coffee filter into a medium-sized bowl. Let the filtered oil settle for a few hours, then pour it off the dark liquid in the bottom of the bowl, if there is any.
Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator, and use within 1 week.

How To Make Herb-Infused Oils Class

These easy herbal preparations are a wonderful way to capture the benefits of herbs for many uses, from skincare to cooking. There are so many herbs you can choose from depending on your intended use, and there are so many ways these oils can be used.
As an example of the many uses of an herb-infused oil, let’s take a look at the herb rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis). Rosemary can be used to create a vibrantly flavored culinary oil for use when roasting potatoes or making your favorite pasta sauce. For topical use, rosemary-infused oil can be used in a number of bath products, such as sugar scrubs or herbal shampoo. With its antimicrobial and moisturizing properties, rosemary-infused oil is a popular support for an itchy scalp and dandruff (McIntyre, 1996). It is also used to support hair growth since rosemary is an invigorating herb that stimulates blood flow on the surface of the skin.

Herb-Infused Oils for Wellness and Beauty
Herb-infused oils can be used for bath and skincare products and other topical uses.
Herbs that make great herb-infused oils include calendula (Calendula officinalis) flower, plantain (Plantago spp.) leaf, chickweed (Stellaria media) leaf, chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) flower, lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) flower, and comfrey (Symphytum officinale) leaf. These herb-infused oils can be used in lotion, cream, salve, insect repellent, and bath oil. Calendula is commonly used for sunburn, itchiness, rashes, inflammation, and wounds that are slow to heal (Hoffmann, 2003). Plantain is a vulnerary and encourages tissue renewal (Bruton-Seal, 2009). Chickweed can be used to soothe minor burns and skin conditions such as psoriasis and eczema (Wood, 2008). Chamomile and lavender are both calming and antifungal (McIntyre, 1996), and comfrey can be considered for minor burns, rashes, and insect bites (Grieves, 1971) but should be used with caution on open wounds due to its pyrrolizidine alkaloids. To learn more about the safe use of comfrey, see our article, The Comfrey Controversy: Can And Should One Use Comfrey Internally?
Carrier oils used that are ideal for topical use include olive (Olea europaea) oil, as it offers some resistance to oxidation and rancidity, but there are many other oils that can be used, such as almond (Prunus amygdalus), apricot (Prunus americana), coconut (Cocos nucifera), and grapeseed (Vitis vinifera). Beneficial properties and shelf life will vary for each oil. We recommend researching each carrier oil option before choosing an oil for your herb-infused oil. You can find a list of carrier oils and their properties in our post, Choosing Essential Oil Carriers.
There are several infusion methods you can use to make these infused oils, such as warm infusion, solar infusion, stovetop infusion, and oven infusion methods, which we will describe below. Each of these methods yields fairly similar results, so feel free to experiment and see which method(s) you prefer.

Culinary Herb-Infused Oils
You can use tasty herb-infused oils for a delicious addition to salad dressings or any number of healthy, delicious meal preparations. Some herbs that make lovely culinary oils are garlic (Allium sativum) bulb, ginger (Zingiber officinale) rhizome, cayenne pepper (Capsicum spp.) fruit, and oregano (Origanum vulgare) leaf. We suggest using dried herbs to prevent mold and bacterial growth in your infused oils and minimize the risk of botulism poisoning.
Carrier oils that are ideal for culinary infused oils are avocado (Persea americana), coconut (Cocos nucifera), grapeseed (Vitis vinifera), and olive (Olea europaea) oil, among others.
While you can certainly use any of the herb infusion methods mentioned below, the stovetop method is the most common infusion method used when making culinary herb-infused oils. If using the warm-infusion method, you can strain and use it after 1-2 weeks.
Tips For Making Herb-Infused Oils
For best results, we recommend using high-quality dried herbs, as they will not contribute to spoilage, and you will have a longer-lasting product.
While fresh herbs can be used in herb-infused oils for topical use and are preferred for some herbs, such as St. John’s wort (Hypericum perforatum) aerial parts and mullein (Verbascum thapsus) flowers, care must be taken to minimize moisture in the finished product to decrease the chance of growth of mold or bacteria. This article will focus on herb-infused oils made with dried herbs.
Culinary oils meant for internal use should be made with dried herbs to minimize the risk of botulism.
You can use one herb to make your herb-infused oil or you can blend herbs to create a formula for your herb-infused oil. The choices are endless and completely up to you!
Herb-infused oils can be made with either the traditional folk method in which ingredient amounts are eyeballed or the more precise ratio method where ingredient amounts are measured. Each method is included in the herb-infused oil tutorials below.
Always use dry, sterilized jars with tight-fitting lids when making herb-infused oils using dried herbs to reduce the chance of bacteria or mold growth or your oils going rancid due to oxidation. Colored glass bottles will reduce exposure to light, which speeds up the degradation of your oils and herbal properties. Also, adding a few drops of vitamin E oil can discourage oxidation as well.
Be sure to label jars and bottles with dates and ingredients during the infusion process and after bottling for storage.
Now that we’ve covered some of the most important points of making herb-infused oils, let’s look at the supplies you’ll need and the various ways to make these preparations in more detail below.

Supplies for Herb-Infused Oils
When making herb-infused oils, you will likely need the following supplies depending upon the oil infusion method you choose to follow.
Carrier oil(s) of choice, such as avocado (Persea americana), coconut (Cocos nucifera), grapeseed (Vitis vinifera), or olive (Olea europaea) oil
Dried herb(s) of your choice such as calendula (Calendula officinalis), plantain (Plantago spp.), chickweed (Stellaria media), chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla), lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), or comfrey (Symphytum officinale)
Natural waxed paper
Sterilized, dry glass jar with a tight-fitting lid
Sterilized, dry spoon
Sterilized, dry, stainless steel saucepan(s) or a double boiler
Crockpot (optional)
Cheesecloth or finer cloth, such as a nut milk bag, muslin, an old (but clean!) T-shirt, or unbleached coffee filter (optional)
Bowl with a spout
Labels and permanent marker
Dark-colored glass bottles with dropper tops or cap tops for storing finished product
Mortar and pestle (optional)
Wire strainer (optional)
Funnel (optional)
Vitamin E oil (optional)

Warm-Infusion Method for Herb-Infused Oils
The warm-infusion method of making herb-infused oils is one of the simplest methods you can use to infuse oils although it does require a time commitment, so be sure to plan ahead if you choose to use this type of infusion method.
Now don’t let the term warm confuse you here. It does not involve using any external heat sources, as the room temperature of your home is sufficient.
Warm Infusion
There’s something that feels so grounding about combining herbs and oil together, expressing gratitude and good intentions over the mixture, and setting it away to infuse and to be used later in various ways. That’s what this warm infusion method of making herb-infused oils feels like to us. It’s so simple and basic that anyone can do it with ease!
Warm Herb-Infused Oil
Ingredients
Carrier oil(s) of choice
Dried herb(s) of choice
Natural waxed paper
Sterilized, dry glass jar with a tight-fitting lid
Directions
To begin making an herb-infused oil, you’ll want to decide whether to use the folk method or the ratio method. As mentioned above, the traditional folk method relies on “eyeballing” the ingredient amounts and is the simplest method to follow. However, you may prefer to measure ingredient amounts, and if so you can use the more precise ratio method.
To create an herb-infused oil using the folk method, simply fill a dry, sterilized container ½ full with dried herb(s) and pour room-temperature oil over the herb(s), making sure to completely cover the herb(s) by 1 inch.
To create an herb-infused oil using the ratio method, fill a dry, sterilized container with 1 ounce of dried herb(s) and pour 10 fluid ounces of room-temperature oil over the herb(s).
The steps to making a basic herb-infused oil are as follows. Slight variations in these steps will be noted in the infusion methods detailed below.
Place dried herbs in a dry, sterilized container and cover with the appropriate amount of room-temperature oil, based on whether you are using the folk or ratio method.
Use a dry, sterilized spoon to mix thoroughly so all surfaces of the herb(s) are coated with oil and no air bubbles remain.
Place a square piece of natural waxed paper on top of the jar, then seal jar with a lid (this protects the herbal oil from any chemical coating that may be on the lid).
Roll jar back and forth in your hands to continue to thoroughly mix the herb and oil.
Place the container in a dark, warm spot, such as a cupboard, out of direct sunlight, and let the mixture sit for 4-6 weeks. Stir or shake the herb and oil mixture to mix the contents and release the herbal constituents into the oil every few days.
When the infusion time is up, line a wire strainer with a few layers of cheesecloth or finer cloth, or simply place the cloth within a funnel placed in the mouth of a dry, sterilized glass jar, and decant the mixture. With clean, dry hands, gather the cloth up and squeeze strongly, squeezing as much oil from the herb(s) as possible. Compost the herb(s).
Cover the jar, and let the oil settle overnight in a cool, dark location. This will allow any herb sediment to settle to the bottom of the jar. You can also strain the oil through a finer filter such as an unbleached coffee filter to remove sediment.
Pour the oil into dry, sterilized, dark-colored glass bottles with dropper tops or caps and add a couple of drops of vitamin E oil to each container, if desired, to slow down the oxidation of the oil.
Label, and store in a cool, dark location.

Heat-Infusion Methods for Herb-Infused Oils
Utilizing external sources of heat is an excellent way to get a high-quality herb-infused oil as heat encourages the breakdown of plant material and the movement of the carrier oil molecules, allowing them to more easily extract the plant’s constituents into the solution, resulting in a better extraction. Heat is definitely helpful in breaking down the cell walls of tough plant parts and mushrooms. When using external heat sources, it’s best to keep the preparation no warmer than 120-140 degrees Fahrenheit at any given time to best preserve the properties of the plant material and the oil.
Solar Infusion
The solar infusion method of making herb-infused oils is a beautiful one, especially if you want to incorporate the energy of the sun into your infused oils. This method is the simplest of all the heat-infusion methods as it utilizes the sun for warmth. It is very similar to the warm-infusion method above, only requiring one additional step.
Solar Herb-Infused Oil
Ingredients
Carrier oil(s) of choice
Dried herb(s) of choice
Natural waxed paper
Sterilized, dry glass jar with a tight-fitting lid
Directions
Follow the directions for making herb-infused oil using the warm-infusion method above.
Once your herbs and oils have been combined in the jar and sealed, place the jar in a brown paper bag or wrap it in an opaque cloth, and place it in a sunny window sill or directly in the sunlight for 1-2 weeks. Every 1-3 days, roll the jar in your hands to help mix the contents and release the herbal constituents into the oil.
When the infusion process is finished, follow the directions in the warm-infusion method above for straining and bottling your herb-infused oil.
Double-Boiler Infusion
The upside to this method is that it’s the quickest of all the heat-infusion methods and will allow you to make herb infused oils in under an hour! How nice is that? This method is commonly used for herbal oils needed quickly during an acute condition such as an earache or insect bite. The downside is that it doesn’t produce the strongest infused oils possible.
Double Boiler Herb-Infused Oil
Ingredients
Carrier oil(s) of choice
Dried herb(s) of choice
Sterilized, dry glass jar with a tight-fitting lid
Directions
Begin by placing a stainless steel saucepan on the stove, filling it ¼ full of water, and bringing the water to a boil.
Place your herbs and oils into a second dry, sterilized stainless steel saucepan that is slightly smaller than the first. Use a dry, sterilized spoon to mix thoroughly so all surfaces of the herb(s) are coated and no air bubbles remain.
Place the smaller, herb-filled saucepan inside the larger, water-filled saucepan and simmer for 30-60 minutes, keeping a careful eye on the amount of water in the larger pan and being very careful not to let water splash into the oil/herb mixture. Monitor the temperature of your oil and keep it between 120-140 degrees Fahrenheit. If the water level runs low in the lower saucepan, carefully add more hot water to bring the water level in the saucepan back up to ¼ full.
When the infusion process is finished, follow the directions in the warm-infusion method above for straining and bottling your herb-infused oil.
Stovetop or Crockpot Infusion
If you’re looking for another quick way to effectively infuse herbs into oil, the stovetop or crockpot infusion method is for you. While this method takes a bit more time than the double boiler method above, it will allow you to make a stronger herb-infused oil that more effectively extracts the beneficial properties of the plant material. This method can take anywhere from 4-8 hours (or more, if you’d like) from start to finish, and it produces a lovely herb-infused oil for you to use in a fairly short amount of time.
Stovetop or Crockpot Herb-Infused Oil
Ingredients
Carrier oil(s) of choice
Dried herb(s) of choice
Natural waxed paper
Sterilized, dry glass jar with a tight-fitting lid
Sterilized, dry glass jar with a tight-fitting lid
Directions
Follow the directions for making herb-infused oils in the warm-infusion method above.
Once your herbs and oils have been combined in your jar and sealed, place the jar in saucepan or crockpot that has been filled ¼ full of water (place some jar lids on the bottom of the pan to protect the jar from breaking).
Simmer for 4-8 hours (or more, if desired), keeping a careful eye on the amount of water in the pan and being very careful not to allow the water to splash into the oil/herb mixture. Monitor the temperature and keep it between 120-140 degrees Fahrenheit. If the water level runs low, carefully add more hot water to bring the water level in the saucepan back up to ¼ full. When time is up, remove the jar from the saucepan and allow it to cool before straining.
When the infusion process is finished, follow the directions in the warm-infusion method above for straining and bottling your herb-infused oil.
Oven Infusion
If you don’t want to worry about leaving open heat sources on or keeping a constant eye on water levels, infusing an oil using the oven method is an option. This method produces a nicely infused oil and doesn’t require your constant attention.
Oven Herb-Infused Oil
Ingredients
Carrier oil(s) of choice
Dried herb(s) of choice
Sterilized, dry, ovenproof dish
Directions
Begin by preheating the oven to 120-140 degrees Fahrenheit.
Follow the directions for making herb infused oils above.
Place your herbs and oils into a sterilized, dry, ovenproof dish, and use a dry, sterilized spoon to mix thoroughly so all surfaces of the herb(s) are coated and no air bubbles remain.
When the oven has preheated, place the herb-filled ovenproof dish in the oven, uncovered, for 4-8 hours.
When the infusion process is finished, follow the directions in the warm-infusion method above for straining and bottling your herb-infused oil.
Learning how to make herb-infused oils is just one of the first things beginners learn in herbalism. If you are interested in studying herbalism, start your journey in the Online Introductory Herbal Course or in the Online Intermediate Herbal Course. Learn more about herbs and how to use them for wellness and as food.

Chai Tea Recipe

Bowl of whole spices for chai tea, cinnamon sticks, nutmeg, cloves, allspice, ginger root and peppercorn
Cinnamon sticks, cloves, allspice, ginger root, peppercorns and a nutmeg pod.
Ingredients
3-4” of fresh ginger, chopped or grated
3 Sticks of Cinnamon
(ground cinnamon will make the tea gritty)
2 tsp Whole Cloves (or 1/2 tsp ground)
1/2 of a Whole Nutmeg (or 1 tsp ground)
1 tsp Peppercorns ( do not substitute ground)
2 tsp Allspice
Optional: 6-8 cardamom pods
or 2-4 Star Anise
1 Vanilla Bean (or add 2 tsp vanilla extract after you take off heat)

Directions
Pot of simmering spices for chai tea
Simmer all the above in a medium pot with 3-4 cups of water for 15-20 minutes.

Add 6-8 black tea bags, turn off heat and let steep for 5 minutes.

Strain into a heat proof container. Store in refrigerator for up to a week.

To serve, heat tea concentrate and then add milk, or milk with a splash of cream , or half and half- yum! Up to a 50/50 ratio. Sweeten with honey or maple syrup.

I will often keep the strained ingredients in a pot on the stove, and keep simmering in water like a stovetop potpourri!

Also, many of the same ingredients do well in my DIY Cocktail Infusion Kits.

Cheers to simple, slow cups of chai tea, herbal tea or whatever warms your soul!

Calendula and Chamomile Beeswax Salve

Choose favorite oils and butters to make just a few tins or a large batch
1 part beeswax
1 part cocoa butter/shea butter
2 parts high-quality edible oil
Optional: vitamin E oil as a preservative

Note: amounts do not have to be precise, but very close. Use more oil for creamier, or less for firmer consistency.
Ingredients
56 g beeswax
28 g cocoa butter
28 g shea butter
14 g coconut oil
56 g calendula infused olive oil
56 g chamomile infused avocado oil
14 g vanilla infused sunflower-coconut oil
10 g castor oil
5 g vitamin E oil (antioxidant/preservative)
Optional: essential oils

Instructions
Measure all ingredients and gently melt beeswax and shea butter/cocoa butters and fats in a double boiler over medium heat. Add oils. Stir well and turn off the heat. Carefully pour into empty containers. This must be done quickly before the mixture hardens. If the mixture should harden place measuring cup back into the double boiler water and heat up slowly while stirring the mixture. Cool for an hour until mixture has completely hardened, then cap.

Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla)

Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla)
The calming chamomile plant can be used for stress relief, tension, indigestion, colic and to relieve skin inflammation and irritations.
T here’s some evidence it could ease anxiety and maybe even help you sleep better. But we need more research, especially because many of the studies done so far have combined chamomile with other ingredients.
Still, chamomile is generally considered safe. Historically, people have used it for:
Chest colds
Fever
Gum inflammation (gingivitis) and canker sores
Sore throats
Hemorrhoids
Acid reflux
Diarrhea
Gas
Irritable bowel syndrome (IBS)
Inflammatory bowel disease (ulcerative colitis)
Heartburn
Nausea and vomiting
Upset stomach or stomach ulcer

Some people also use chamomile in ointment or liquid form to help with skin conditions, such as:
Abscesses
Acne
Eczema
Infections such as shingles
Minor first-degree burns
Mouth sores due to cancer treatment (as a mouthwash)
Psoriasis
Some early research suggests that chamomile may be about 60% as effective as certain doses of hydrocortisone cream for eczema.
Chamomile is also used as a mild sedative to improve sleep. You can try chamomile tea and other products to help with issues such as difficulty falling or staying asleep (insomnia), stress, anxiety, and depression.

In infants and young children, some people use chamomile or products containing chamomile to ease:
Chickenpox
Colic
Diaper rash
Diarrhea

Chamomile Syrup-Tincture & Oil

Chamomile Syrup

1/4 cup dried chamomile flowers
12 ounces water
Approximately 1/2 cup honey
Steep the chamomile in just-boiled hot water for 10 minutes, covered. Strain. Add the honey, stir well to combine. Keep in the fridge and use within 2 weeks.
Yield: 2 cups

Chamomile Tincture
1 cup finely crumbled dried chamomile flowers
16 ounces vodka (80-100 proof)
Place the chamomile in a glass pint jar. Add the vodka. You will most likely not use the entire 16 ounces. Stir well. Cover with a tight fitting lid and let it macerate for 4 weeks. I keep mine in a dark place on the counter and shake it daily for the first couple of weeks. Strain. This stores indefinitely. The recommended dosage is 3-6 ml, 3 times a day, or small doses more frequently.
Yield: 14 ounces

Chamomile Oil

1/2 cup finely crumbled dried chamomile flowers
16 ounces carrier oil of your choice
Place the chamomile in a glass pint jar. Fill the jar withthe oil. You will most likely not use the entire 16 ounces.
Stir well. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and let it macerate for 4 weeks. I keep mine in a dark place on the counter and shake it daily for the first couple of weeks. When the oil smells like lovely chamomile, you can strain it, and then use as desired. Use within a year.
Yield: 14 ounces

Astragalus Root

Astragalus has been used for centuries in traditional Chinese medicine in combination with other herbs.
Its root is used for health care purposes.
Commonly combined with other herbs, astragalus has been promoted as a dietary supplement for many conditions, including upper respiratory infections, allergic rhinitis (hay fever), asthma, chronic fatigue syndrome, and chronic kidney disease, among others. It’s also promoted to strengthen and regulate the immune system. Topical use (application to the skin) of astragalus is promoted for improving blood flow and speeding wound healing.
Astragalus may be safe when used orally and appropriately. (Doses up to 60 grams daily for up to 4 months have been used without reported adverse effects.) Some possible side effects with oral use include rash, itching, nasal symptoms, or stomach discomfort, but these are uncommon.
Astragalus may interact with medications that suppress the immune system.
Some astragalus species, usually not found in dietary supplements, can be toxic to livestock. Several species that grow in the United States contain the neurotoxin swainsonine and have caused “locoweed” poisoning in animals. Other species contain potentially toxic levels of selenium. Too much selenium can lead to diarrhea, irritability, nausea, skin rashes, and nervous system problems.
Little is known about whether it’s safe to use astragalus during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. Some research in animals suggests that astragalus can be toxic to the mother and fetus.
Insomnia, sleeplessness, and interrupted sleep patterns can be cured by regular consumption of astragalus root. By improving overall health, metabolism, and hormonal balance this root can help in delivering a peaceful sleep.
How long do you need to take astragalus to start experiencing its benefits? Since most of the beneficial compounds in astragalus are fat-soluble and have a cumulative effect, you may need to take this substance for more than a week to experience its unique benefits.
(Doses up to 60 grams daily for up to 4 months have been used without reported adverse effects.) Some possible side effects with oral use include rash, itching, nasal symptoms, or stomach discomfort, but these are uncommon. Astragalus may interact with medications that suppress the immune system.
Astragalus has not been reported to cause clinically apparent liver injury. Because of its possible effects on CYP activity, its potential for herb-drug interactions should be considered before it is used.

Immune-Building Astragalus Chai (Tea)

Yield: 1 serving
Ingredients:
15 to 20 small astragalus root slices (30 grams)
1 tablespoon dried orange peel
2 teaspoons dried ginger root
1/2 tablespoon cinnamon chips
1/2 teaspoon whole peppercorns
1 or 2 cardamom pods
2 whole cloves
milk to taste (optional)
honey to taste (optional)
STOVE METHOD
1. Optional step: Let the herbs sit
in lukewarm water for 30 minutes
to 2 hours prior to simmering. Use
this same water when you simmer
the herbs.
2. Place the herbs in a medium
saucepan. Add 2 1/2 cups of water.
3. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and
simmer for 20 minutes, covered.
SLOW COOKER METHOD
1. Place the herbs in a slow cooker
with 2 1/2 cups of water.
4. Strain. Add milk and honey as
desired. Drink within 36 hours.
2. Set it to low heat and let it
cook overnight, covered. Inspect
the amount; if it looks low, add
more water.
3. Strain. Add milk and honey as
desired. Drink within 36 hours.

Chamomile Tea

Yield: 1 serving
1 tablespoon dried chamomile flowers
12 ounces water
Steep the chamomile in just boiled hot water for 7-10
minutes, covered. Strain. Add honey if desired. Enjoy!
Or
Yield: 1 1/2 cup
Ingredients:
1 tablespoon dried chamomile flowers
1 inch of vanilla bean, minced (optional)
Optional:
1 1/2 teaspoons dried oatstraw
1 1/2 teaspoons dried rose petals
honey to taste
Instructions:

Place the herbs in a large tea strainer inside a teacup.

Fill the cup with 1 1/2 cups of just-boiled water.

Cover and steep for 15 minutes.

Strain. Tip: Use a spoon to squeeze out more liquid from the herbs.

Add honey if desired.

Making Slime

Making Two Kinds of Slime

Recipe #1 Slime:

Mix in one bowl:
3/4 cup warm water
1 cup white glue
few drops of food coloring
Mix in a second bowl:
1 1/3 cups warm water
4 teaspoons Borax
(Borax is found in the laundry section. ****Borax should not be ingested and can cause skin reactions with some… so use your discretion!)
Pour contents of first bowl into second bowl and let sit for one minute without stirring. Then explore Slime #1!

Recipe #2 Slime:
1/4 cup water
1/4 cup white glue
1/4 cup liquid starch
few drops of food coloring
Pour all glue in mixing bowl and then add water. Stir water and glue together. Add food color. Then lastly add starch. Then have fun with Slime #2.
Making the two kinds of Slime was fun in itself and this time my daughter could actually read the recipe, so making it a great reading activity and science experiment too.

Easy Refrigerator Pickles Recipe

YELD:24 servings
Ingredients
6 cups thinly sliced cucumbers
2 cups thinly sliced onions
1-1/2 cups sugar
1-1/2 cups cider vinegar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon mustard seed
1/2 teaspoon celery seed
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
Directions
1. Place cucumbers and onions in a large bowl; set aside. Combine remaining ingredients in a saucepan; bring to a boil. Cook and stir just until the sugar is dissolved. Pour over cucumber mixture; cool. Cover tightly and refrigerate for at least 24 hours before serving. Yield: 6 cups.
Nutritional Facts
1/4 cup equals 58 calories, trace fat (trace saturated fat), 0 cholesterol, 50 mg sodium, 15 g carbohydrate, trace fiber, trace protein.
© 2016 RDA Enthusiast Brands, LLC

Herbs de Provence

Mix with olive oil to coat chicken, fish, tomatoes and vegetables chunks for roasting. You can also use to season salads, soups, stews, sauces and cheeses. I like a Tb dried orange zest added to the mix for chicken.

3 tablespoons dried thyme
2 tablespoons dried savory
1 tablespoon dried oregano
3 teaspoons dried rosemary
2 teaspoons dried marjoram

Optional: Depending on the dish you want to flavor.
1 tablespoon dried lavender flowers
1 tablespoon dried orange zest
1 pulverized bay leaf. Bay leaf is great, but powder it as it can choke people easily if just crumbled.
1 tablespoon dried tarragon
1 tablespoon basil
½ tablespoon fennel

1. I should say here that some cooks leave all the dried ingredients like rosemary un-ground and prefer whole seasonings in part for presentation. Grind or not to grind is a personal preference. I prefer the following procedure as I use the herbs on roasted vegetables and don’t care for the large pieces.

2. Grind whole seeds and mixtures like Mexican oregano and rosemary in a spice grinder, or food processor, just enough to make them “flaky” if possible. Don’t totally pulverize the herbs. I have used a small mortar and pestle, but it is slow going if making a good size batch of the herb mixture. Stir in already ground spices and store in air tight jar.

Kratky method

Here are some instructions for mixing FloraMicro with other nutrients for hydroponics:

Mixing order:
Start with a reservoir of fresh water, then add concentrates one at a time, stirring each one in.
Mixing FloraMicro first: Mix FloraMicro first to prevent it from getting locked out.
Add FloraMicro after calcium sources, and before any bloom supplements that contain phosphorus.
Mixing ratio: The ratio of nutrients depends on the crop and its stage of growth. Here are some general guidelines:
Seeds, cuttings, or seedlings: Use 1/4 teaspoon of each nutrient per gallon of water.
Vegetative stage: Use 1–3 teaspoons of FloraGro, 1–2 teaspoons of FloraMicro, and 1 teaspoon of FloraBloom per gallon of water.
Bloom to ripening stage: Use 1–2 teaspoons of FloraGro, 2 teaspoons of FloraMicro, and 2–3 teaspoons of FloraBloom per gallon of water.
Monitoring pH: Use the included pH Control Kit to monitor and adjust pH levels.
Rinsing: Rinse the container after each use to avoid mixing in concentrated nutrients.

Some plants that work well with the Kratky method include:
Leafy greens like spinach, kale, bok choy, Swiss chard, and lettuce
Herbs like basil, cilantro, parsley, and mint
Cherry tomatoes
Bell peppers

Self water planter

elf water planter

White fly

Neem oil

Sticky shieets

Water with a hydrogen peroxide solution

You can also kill whitefly larvae with the help of a hydrogen peroxide solution. You just have to create this solution by mixing four parts of water with one part of hydrogen peroxide or around 3% solution.

Once the solution is already made, pour it into the soil. After watering the soil with it, expect to notice some bubbling, which indicates that it is already working and on its way to get rid of whiteflies.

Expose to soapy water

You also get the chance to get rid of whiteflies by putting on soapy water on the affected plants. Used correctly, you can deter whiteflies with it. To create the soapy water, you need one gallon of water and two tablespoons of liquid dish soap or an insecticidal soap.

Mix the two well. Pour this solution into a spray bottle then use it in spraying the underside of the damaged leaf. You can increase your chance to completely eradicate the white flies by repeating the use of it every 2 to 3 days.

The use of soapy water can treat insect and pest infestations, like aphids and whiteflies. It is effective in killing them, especially their eggs and the ones that lay eggs. The fact that you also use a pressure spray bottle for this means that you easily knock off tiny white bugs from the leaves.

If you decide to use soap sprays to control whiteflies and other insects, it is advisable to do the application early morning. You may also do it in the evening. This is necessary for preventing dish or insecticidal soap residues on leaves that may only burn them when the sun is too strong.

Apply pyrethrin spray

Generally, it would be best for you to avoid the use of synthetic chemical pesticides when dealing with problems with your indoor plants. Despite that, there is a particular spray that is safe to use when planning to get rid of whiteflies – the pyrethrin spray.

It is generally safe since its active ingredient is naturally extracted from chrysanthemum flowers. Note, though, that there are pesticides often with pyrethroids labels that contain chemicals.

These chemicals are usually added to pure and organic pyrethrin as a means of boosting the pesticide’s functions. Remember that you can’t classify them as organic pesticides, which means you should be extra careful when using them.

Before investing in pesticides, spend time reading the label instructions carefully. Ensure that it is organic and pure plus mainly designed in controlling white flies.

Add reflective mulch

You can also keep whitefly away from your garden with the help of a reflective plastic mulch. All you have to do is to spread this mulch around the host plants of pests and insects. Doing so aids in reducing whitefly populations while protecting your plants from attacks.

The reason is that they can confuse bugs. With that, you can prevent whiteflies and bugs from getting into your plants, making it hard for them to cause infestations.

Put yellow sticky traps

By putting some yellow sticky traps, it is possible to lessen the number of whiteflies present in your infested greenhouse environments and garden. The main reason is that these sticky traps are made in such a way that they can capture all whiteflies coming close to your plants.

The traps can, therefore, stop such insects from landing on your plants and causing infestations. You can also use the traps in monitoring the whitefly population, thereby promoting ease in figuring out whether the numbers are increasing without the need for close inspection.

Preventive Measures

In addition to the mentioned solutions, it also helps you to do something to prevent the whitefly infestation from happening in the first place. Among the preventive measures you can do, in this case, are the following:

Inspect plants closely, especially new ones that you intend to bring home – Isolate new ones for several days, separating them from the others. This is to make sure that they do not bring in whiteflies that may only infest the plants already existing in your garden.
Take plants outdoors every summer – This is the time when natural predators, like lacewings and ladybugs, will feed on the larvae of whiteflies. Ensure that you carefully spray them with neem oil or pyrethrin before returning them indoors during the winter.
Do companion planting – Note that there are plants that emit odors capable of repelling whiteflies. These include sage, cilantro, and mint. Try to do companion planting using the mentioned plants to keep whiteflies under control.
Do not use chemical insecticides – Most whiteflies are naturally resistant to chemical insecticides, so they won’t be of help in preventing and controlling their population. These insecticides may also only kill beneficial insects, the natural predators of whiteflies, as well as the insects pollinating your garden to promote a good harvest.

Will vinegar kill whiteflies on plants?

Yes. As a matter of fact, it is one of the most highly recommended home remedies for whiteflies that damage plants. Make sure to buy and use pure vinegar.

All it takes for you to start using it would be to dilute it in water (equal parts) then spray this solution on the houseplants. This solution is often enough in killing whiteflies.

Grape Cuttings

rows of a vineyard in autumn

Best time to plant grapes in Arizona: October, March – April. Months to harvest: July – August.

Add peat moss, shredded bark or coco peat and sand in quantities up to 50 percent of total soil volume to minimize stress on root growth and allow excess water to drain away from plant roots. Worm castings added. Pine bark mulch.

It takes about 2 months before leaves come out. Leaves come from nodes. Takes longer for roots to form well enough to plant. (3-6 Months)

Roots go 2 feet deep; plant in rich soil.
Water slowly, deeply, and infrequently.

Winter (below 70 degrees): water once every 7-14 days
Spring and Fall (70-90 degrees): water once every 5-7 days
Summer (90-110 degrees): water once every 3-5 days
Extreme Heat (above 110 degrees): water every 1-3 days

. Fertilize mature grapes in February and May.

Prune while dormant in the winter.
Look out for Western grape leaf skeletonizer; use Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt.) on Amazon, to control.
Provide support for growing grapes.

from 4 WildflowerRun: Concord Grape (Vitis labrusca ‘Concord) (Dark purple to black grapes)

from 3 Greenhouse pca: Thompson cuttings (yellow Grapes)

Gnats

Management strategies include insecticides and repotting (or rerooting) infested plants. I do not recommend the use of chemical insecticides for fungus gnats in the home. Fungus gnats are considered a nuisance pest and not usually that plentiful in our arid environment. Yellow sticky cards attract fungus gnats and are often used for monitoring. Placement of several yellow sticky cards may also be somewhat effective in reducing their numbers. The yellow color attracts gnats and they get stuck to the card. Electrocutor-light fly traps will attract and kill adult fungus gnats at night.

Bacillus thuringiensis serotype israelensis (Bti) is a biological control that can be used to manage fungus gnats. It is a safer alternative to chemicals and is applied to the soil of infested plants to control larvae. This product is packaged for homeowners and sold as Gnatrol. Other biological controls are available for fungus gnat management. Beneficial nematodes can be purchased that parasitize fungus gnat larvae. These microscopic roundworms are available from specialty garden catalogs. Steinernema feltiae is the nematode species that is most effective against fungus gnats and it is sold under the trade names Nemasys, NemAttack, Enton-em, X-Gnat, and Magnet. Applications of these nematodes have eliminated fungus gnats from the houseplants in our offices. Additional fungus gnat information and photos are included below.

Before you launch a control campaign for any pest, remember the four steps of integrated pest management (IPM). These are: 1) correct identification of pest; 2) monitor for damage (or nuisance) threshold; 3) once the threshold is reached, apply multiple prevention and control measures; and 4) monitor for control effectiveness and revise strategy if needed.

IPM is a standard approach for minimizing damage from any pest species. All gardeners would do well to memorize these steps and use them whenever pest issues arise. The key points are correct pest species identification and accepting some damage before control measures are applied. If you jump the gun and apply pesticides before a damage threshold is reached, you will most certainly kill some beneficial (predators and parasites) and/or benign insects.

Blueberries

pH range of 4.8 to 5.2.

3 parts potting soil, 1 part perlite and 1 part pine bark for light, quick-draining, nourishing soil.

OR: 40% peat moss and 10% compost, then the remaining native soil should make up the last 50%.

IMPORTANT NOTE! Do not use mushroom compost or composted manure in soil used for blueberries. It will likely kill your plants due to the high nitrogen content. If you are unsure as to whether or not your compost is suitable for blueberries, leave it out.

Southern Highbush (USDA hardiness zones 5-10) Blueberries have wide, shallow root systems. Place a bare root or a transplant into a 5-10 gallon container. After a couple of years, shift up to a wider container, such as a half wine barrel.( 25 gal. or more)

Emerald

“Emerald” Southern Highbush Blueberry Plants are 2 1/4 inch potted plants with at least a two inch root system and are at least 3-5 inches tall.

Most all edible plants grow well in Full Sun but a little shade won’t hurt. Blueberry Plants need to be planted in acidic soil/low pH 5.5-6.4. A recommend 60%-80% Pine Mulch/20-40% Peat.

4 inch pot for starter plants then re-pot to 25 Gal.pot or plant in ground.

The plant is moderate grower and nice and bushy. On average the plant is more disease resistant than most Southern Highbush Plants.

It is low chill 50-200 hours and has high evergreen qualities which means it’s almost NO CHILL or can be grown past zone 9. It is mid to late season producer with a harvest of over 6 weeks. The berries are large.

Blueberry bushes like very acidic soil, and a pH level between 4.0 to 4.8 not over 6. is required for the plants to absorb water and nutrients and produce berries.

Roots go 2 feet deep; plant in rich soil.

Water slowly, deeply, and infrequently. During the summer, water every 7 to 10 days.

Fertilize mature grapes in February and May. Ammonium sulfateis the most commonly recommended blueberry fertilizer for ensuring the pH of the soil remains acidic.

How much to initially apply depends, of course, on how acidic your soil is to begin with.

Typically, 2 to 4 ounces per bush per year is adequate to maintain an established pH between 4.5 and 5.1.

Blackberries

Blackberries grow best in sandy loam soil. Otherwise, they can be grown in soils that are at least one-foot-deep, have good drainage, and have a pH between 4.5 and 7.5. Organic amendment (compost) should be added at planting time. On soils with a pH of 8.0 or above, soil sulfur may be incorporated into the soil before planting or when thinning canes. Otherwise, plants may experience zinc or iron deficiency and applications of zinc sulfate or iron chelate may be necessary. If soil drainage is inadequate, grow blackberries in a raised bed filled with mineral soil. They perform best in full sun when grown at elevations above 2,500 ft.

Blossoms may be damaged at temperatures below 26 degrees F and drying winds can damage canes between 20 and 24 degrees F. For this reason, select a wind-protected location.

Both erect and trailing blackberries should be trained to a trellis. Trellises for trailing varieties are constructed by stretching two wires (3 and 5 feet above ground level) between steel or rot-resistant wooden posts. Erect varieties may be adequately staked with one wire 3 feet above the soil. End posts will need to be strong and well anchored.

Proper pruning is essential for good production. Erect varieties should be topped at 3 feet during the first summer. This encourages lateral branching, which is where the fruit will be produced the following year. These laterals should be pruned to 12 inches the following spring. Erect varieties should be thinned to 5 or 6 strong canes per foot of row in the spring. Trailing varieties should be thinned to 6 to 12 strong canes per foot of row and trained to the trellis wires in spring. For both trailing and erect varieties, old canes that have produced fruit the previous year should be removed after they have died back.

Nitrogen is the most critical nutrient for blackberry production. Apply from 1 to 1 ½ oz. N per plant (6 to 10 oz. 16-16-16 per plant) per year. Weekly irrigation should be applied by flood, furrow, drip, or other method that wets the soil to a depth of 1 foot. Sandy soils may require more frequent irrigation. Avoid aerial sprinklers that wet foliage as this could promote disease. I have included a link to additional resources below. Enjoy your blackberries!

Propagating Yellow Bells

Yellow bells are easily propagated through cuttings taken in the spring or summer. To do this, you will need a sharp knife or pair of garden snips, a small pot with drainage holes, a plastic bag, a rubber band, and rich, well-draining soil. Once you have the materials, follow the steps below:

In the spring or summer, use a sharp knife or pair of garden snips to remove a tip cutting that is several inches long.

Bury the cut end into rich, well-draining soil. Moisten the soil.

Cover the cutting with a plastic bag to keep in moisture. Secure the bag around the pot with a rubber band.

Place the cutting in a warm area with bright, indirect lighting.

Keep the soil moist, but not soggy.

Once there are several inches of new growth, remove the bag and repot into a larger pot, if needed.

Begin hardening off the plant and move it outdoors.

How to Grow Yellow Bells From Seed

You can also start yellow bells from seeds you’ve collected from the plant. To grow this plant from seed, follow these steps:

Collect seed pods from the plant and wait for them to become brown and dry. Then crack open the pods and remove the seeds.

Fill a small pot with rich, well-draining soil. Peat moss or vermiculite work as well.

Lightly cover the seed in the growing medium.

Water the soil, keeping it moist but not soggy.

Keep the pot in a warm area with bright, indirect lighting. Germination should occur in two to three weeks.

Potting and Repotting Yellow Bells

Yellow bells have a relatively compact size that allows them to grow well in containers. Choose a well-draining pot at least 12 inches wide or larger, depending on the shrub size. Clay pots are a great choice, as these mimic well-draining soil and wick away excess water.

The fast growth of these plants means you will need to repot them more often, since they’re likely to outgrow their container size. To do this, gently tip the pot onto its side and tap the outside of the pot to loosen the root system. Slide the plant out and set it into a larger pot. Fill it with well-draining soil, burying the shrub to the same height it was before.

Aloe barbadensis (aloe vera)

Origin Aloe vera is native to the Arabian Peninsula, but it can grow in a variety of climates, including deserts, grasslands, and coastal areas. Common in the southwest desert the medicinal aloe is used frequently in folk medicine as a treatment for burns, bites and inflammation. It grows equally well in containers or free standing in the landscape.

This plant is one of those aloes that can become a weed quickly. It forms tight clusters of plants and the colony will continue to expand as long as there is room to grow. This aloe is definitely one that needs a barrier to keep it under control.

The medicinal aloe has narrow, fleshy, stiffly upright leaves that can grow up to two feet long. It has yellow flowers on top of a stalk that can reach three feet in height. Because of its winter hardiness, it is one of the best aloes for the warmer areas of Pinal County.

Water storage

Aloe vera stores water in its leaves, which helps it survive in dry conditions.

Cultivation

Aloe vera is cultivated in subtropical regions around the world, including the southern borders of Arizona, California, New Mexico, and Texas.

Watering

Aloe vera needs to be watered deeply and allowed to dry out completely before watering again. In the growing season, it can be watered every 2–3 weeks, and less frequently during the winter.

Soil

Aloe vera prefers well-drained soil with lots of sand. A terracotta pot is a good choice because it’s porous and allows air to flow out.

Burns

First-degree Burns
These burns are less harmful in comparison with other types. They are known for causing minimum damage to the skin. They usually cause harm to the outermost layer of the skin. The common signs of this category are inflammation and redness. In some rare cases, peeling of the skin may take place. It is also known as a superficial wound. Generally, medical treatment is not required, and they can be managed with natural home remedies for burns. Blisters are not formed in this case.
Second-degree Burns
They are more severe and harmful in comparison with the first-degree category. Besides affecting the outer layers, they may cause harm to the deeper layers of the skin. In this type, blisters are formed on the skin. In case the blister seems to pop, the blister will appear in its wet form. The healing process in this category takes a lot of time and completely depends on the severity of the blisters. They penetrate through the epidermis and affect the next layer, known as Dermis.
Third-degree Burns
It penetrates through diverse layers of skin, causing major damage compared to the above-mentioned categories. Nerve damage is also a possibility in this case. It can lead an individual to a point where the feeling of pain will go away. It will lead to discolorations of the skin. The skin color may turn dark brown or waxy white. Left untreated, it may cause excessive scarring that will be almost impossible to control. Self-treatment and home remedies will fail in the treatment of this type.
Fourth-degree Burns
The severity, in this case, is more than other categories; if left untreated, it may turn out to be a life-threatening issue. They are not just confined to damaging the layers of skin as they can also harm the bones & tendons.
If a third-degree or fourth-degree category has injured you or your loved ones, you can consult your doctor to avoid permanent scarring. These burns can deteriorate the condition of your skin and bones and may even cause internal damage leading to an unfortunate death. The first two categories are under the control of home remedies for burns.

When burns occur, the pain that usually accompanies them can be intense. There are different degrees of burns, and the remedies mentioned below are best for minor (first degree) burns. There are several household items you can employ to soothe and heal a burn, but the first step after suffering a burn is to immediately wash the area in cool water. This helps soothe angry skin and nerves, as well as washes away impurities. Never apply any kind of oil (with the exception of diluted lavender essential oil) to a burn, as this might make it worse by trapping in the heat.

Cold Water Not Ice to cool down and clean a burn.

Aloe Vera: Famous for Healing Burns
Aloe vera has already been mentioned for wound healing, but it may be more popular for the
treatment of burns. Many companies use aloe vera in their solutions for sunburn. This is because it is great at soothing angry skin and reducing inflammation. It contains compounds that calm the skin and promote healing. You can apply the juice from the plant directly to the affected areas, or you could apply a liberal amount of the juice to gauze and apply this to the
burn wound.
Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)
Burns and sores: Yarrow can be used as a poultice for burns and open sores.
Yarrow can interact with some medications if taken eternally, including blood thinners, stomach acid reducers, high blood pressure medications, and sleepiness-inducing drugs. Yarrow is also likely unsafe to take during pregnancy because it can affect the menstrual cycle and may cause miscarriage.

Turmeric
It is an active herbal remedy beneficial for the treatment of cuts, burns, and other forms of skin irritation. Curcumin is a yellow pigment present in haldi(turmeric) and is effective against wounds and injuries of different forms. It eases pain, reduces the chance of inflammation, and won’t let blister formation survive for long.
Ingredients Required
Turmeric
Amla
Sandalwood
Rose water
How to apply it?
Prepare a perfect mix of turmeric, Amla, and sandalwood.
Add rose water to the mix to upgrade the quality and generate better results.
Note – You can try this pack 2-3 times a day.
For sunburns that may be hard to reach, you can squeeze a half-ounce of aloe vera juice into a small, one ounce spray bottle and add another half-ounce of distilled water, lavender hydrosol, or witch hazel extract. Shake this mixture well and store in the fridge between uses. Spray on affected areas to cool and provide relief.

A Minor Burn Potato Remedy

This simple potato burn remedy can help support the body as it heals from a minor burn. Here’s how to make a potato poultice in your own kitchen.

Ingredients you’ll need…

1 large potato

If you have a minor burn, first make sure you get cold running tap water on it immediately. If it’s not clean, make sure you clean out the burn with cold running tap water.
Then, peel, slice, or grate a potato.
Apply the potato peels, slices, or grated potato onto the affected area.
Keep replacing your potato peel dressings (or sliced or grated potato) as needed. At some point, you may need to hold the dressing on with a bandage or gauze.

Yield: 1 potato poultice

Banana Peels for Burns
Banana peels have anti inflammatory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial properties? These attributes make them perfect for application to wounds and burns.

Apply the peel to the burn for several minutes, until the area begins to feel better.

Honey for Burns
It’s no wonder this superfood can help treat burns, in addition to treating wounds. Honey can
help to prevent infection, heal the area, and reduce inflammation in the area. Apply honey to
gauze and then apply this to the affected area. Leave it on for several hours before removing to replace.

Wounds and Bleeding

Wounds are bound to happen. For wounds that are minor to moderate, you may be able to take care of them at home, while promoting healing. The common products below can help to clean the area, stop bleeding, and help repair damage:

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) has many medicinal uses, including Bleeding.

Yarrow can stop bleeding from wounds and cuts. The plant’s leaves can be mashed with water and applied to wounds.

Yarrow can interact with some medications, including blood thinners, stomach acid reducers, high blood pressure medications, and sleepiness-inducing drugs. Yarrow is also likely unsafe to take during pregnancy because it can affect the menstrual cycle and may cause miscarriage.

Turmeric:
To make a healing paste with turmeric:
Mix 1-2 teaspoons of ground turmeric (depending on how large the wound is) with enough water to make a thick paste (generally about half the amount of turmeric you use). You can also mix turmeric with coconut oil instead of water for your paste for more healing and anti-bacterial benefits, or apply it as a face cream/mask to reduce acne, redness, or scars.

Be sure to wash your hands and then apply the paste gently on the wound. (It should be pasty, so don’t expect it to look like a cream.)
Once you’ve covered the infected area, place your bandage of choice over the wound.
Let it sit for at least 12 hours, or up to 24.
Do this for three days.
Why this works:
Turmeric not only relieves inflammation to help with pain but also aids in healing in many ways. First, it’s a natural anti-bacterial food, so it will help fight bacteria that are found on the skin when you have a wound and prevent bacteria from entering the body via the wound opening. Turmeric also helps clot the blood, so it will prevent the wound from bleeding further. Last, it helps the wound heal and treats the skin, so there will be little to no scarring and the skin will stay protected.

Teabag for Bleeding
Many people drink tea, making it a very common household item. Tea contains tannins. Tannins are astringent compounds in tea (especially green tea) that may help to clot the blood and draw tissues together.
A 2014 research showed that patients who apply a bandage of green tea concentrates on their bleeding gums or tooth reports less bleeding.
Herbal teas won’t work because they won’t contain the tannins necessary for blood clotting. Decaffeinated tea will not work either.
You will need unused, green or black tea bags.
Press the tea bag firmly against the wound and hold until the bleeding stops. Try to elevate the area above the heart if possible.

Try to elevate the wound above the heart. Gravitational flow pulls everything downwards; similar happens with the blood flow since if you get cut on your hands and hold it above your head, the hand will look pale. On the other side, lowering your head can lead to the blood traveling downwards. In the nutshell with the slow blood flow the chances of bleeding can be prevented with direct pressure.
Ice treatment
In case of a cut in your mouth, or a swelling- applying ice to the affected area might help. Ice helps in reducing swelling. A study conducted by University of Michigan, who found out that bleeding time is longer if your body temperature is high. Hence, if you use near the wound, the ice would cool down the temperature near it. Therefore, It is advisable to apply ice wrapped in a thin cloth or gauze.
Witch Hazel
Witch hazel has an astringent nature that helps in stopping the bleeding in small cuts and nicks. Astringents tends to tighten the skin by holding it together, further helping to promote blood clots and reducing blood supply.

Zinc lozenge and Victim C powder

The combination of zinc lozenge and vitamin C powder helps to stop excessive bleeding while facilitating blood coagulation.
In the case of tooth removal, this is extremely beneficial. A study showed that you sprinkle buffered vitamin C powder onto a gauze and apply it to your tooth socket for bleeding. Slowing the bleeding would help.
Petroleum Jelly
Various cosmetics, like Vaseline products and lip balms, contain petroleum jelly. Petroleum jelly contains a compelling blend of waxes and oils that helps in protecting the skin. It can halt bleeding from small cuts. Martial arts and boxing experts often use petroleum jelly to treat their wounds.
Use styptic pencil
These are waxy pencils, which were originally made for razor burns and shaving nicks, but they can also work great on any small cuts. You have to gently rub the pencil on your wound to allow the astringent minerals to settle on the surface. During the process, your skin may sting a little, but after some time, the bleeding will go away, as well as the pain.
Corn starch
You can sprinkle a bit of cornstarch to stop bleeding from your wound. When you sprinkle the cornstarch, make sure you let it stay on your wound for some time. Do not run on it or it would give rise to further abrasions. You may gently press the cornstarch onto your cut to accelerate the process. Make sure that after the bleeding has stopped, you rinse your wound under running water

Honey for Cleansing and Treating Wounds
Arguably one of the most useful household items, honey offers a variety of benefits. The best
honey to have in your home is raw honey. Avoid honey that has been pasteurized, as the
medicinal benefits are lost through this process. Honey is packed with antimicrobial compounds
that help heal a wound by preventing bacteria from growing. Honey also has a slightly acidic
pH, so this aids in blood clotting, as well as encouraging blood to release oxygen for healing.
The sugar content in honey helps draw water from the wound to keep it from swelling.
To apply honey to a wound, simply spread a little on gauze and place the gauze on the wound.
Place a clean, dry dressing over that dressing and make sure to replace the dressing when the
drainage from the wound has saturated it.
Garlic to Cleanse and Prevent Infection
Garlic is nature’s antibiotic, helping to kill bacteria
and prevent infection from setting in. Because garlic
can be bothersome to the skin if it is left on too long, it
is important to only leave the garlic on the skin for up
to 25 minutes. Crush one to three cloves well and
apply them to the skin, holding them in place. Make
sure that before you apply garlic, you have washed the
area thoroughly.
Potato Poultice for Inflammation
Potatoes have been used on wounds to help draw out infection and help reduce inflammation in a
wound. They can even be sliced and placed over a splinter for several hours (covered with a
bandage) to draw it out. For other wounds, make a poultice with shredded potatoes and apply
this directly to the wound for up to four hours. Make sure you cover the area with a cloth. After
removing, rinse the area with salt water and apply more if desired. It is okay to leave the
poultice on overnight while you are sleeping. Repeat the poultice application and salt water
rinsing until the wound has healed.
Aloe Vera for Speeding up Healing
This familiar household plant has many uses, especially when it comes to healing wounds. The
inner gel of the plant is powerful and can help reduce inflammation, soothe, and repair tissue.
Cut a leaf off your Aloe Vera plant and apply the inner juice to a wound (after cleaning it).
Onion for Nosebleeds
For many years, Chinese medicine practitioners have stated that onions help stop nosebleeds.
To utilize an onion to stop a nosebleed, simply grate a little onion and squeeze out the juice into
a small bowl. Next, dip a cotton ball in the juice. It is not necessary to fully saturate the cotton
ball. Finally, place the cotton ball inside the affected nostril, leaving it there for up to four
minutes.
Another option is to slice an onion and hold it directly under the nostril for several minutes. It is
thought that the strong fumes from the onion help to accelerate clotting.
Apple Cider Vinegar for Nosebleeds
Another nosebleed remedy is to use apple cider
vinegar. This common household item is useful for
a large variety of ailments, and nosebleeds are just
one.
You will need to put one tablespoon of apple cider
vinegar in a small bowl and dip a cotton ball in the
liquid.
It is not necessary to saturate the entire
cotton ball.
Place the cotton ball into the affected nostril for up
to ten minutes. It is thought that the acidity of the
vinegar helps to constrict the blood vessels.
Cayenne Pepper for Nosebleeds
Look no further than your spice rack for
many natural remedies! Cayenne pepper is a
common addition to any spice rack and has
many medicinal properties, including the
ability to stimulate blood clotting. To use
cayenne for a nosebleed, simply add a
teaspoon of ground cayenne to a glass of
warm water and stir it well. Drink this
mixture as soon as possible to benefit.

Gingko

Gingko could be beneficial for:
dementia
Alzheimer’s disease
eye health
inflammation
diabetes
bone healing
anxiety
depression

It’s perhaps best-known for its ability to boost brain health. Studies say that gingko can treat patients with mild to moderate dementia. Trusted Source, and can slow cognition decline in dementia and Alzheimer’s disease.

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)

Yarrow has been used in many cultures for many health conditions, but there is little scientific evidence to support its benefits. Yarrow can also interact with certain medications, including blood thinners, medications for high blood pressure, and medications that reduce stomach acid.
Yarrow may be unsafe for people who are pregnant, breastfeeding, or have bleeding disorders. It may also cause an allergic reaction in people who are sensitive to the Asteraceae/Compositae family, which includes ragweed, chrysanthemums, marigolds, and daisies.

Does not grow well at all in Tucson Az.

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) has many medicinal uses, including:

Healing wounds: Yarrow has been used to stop bleeding and promote healing of wounds and cuts. It can be applied directly to wounds or crushed into a paste with water.

Treating fevers and colds: Yarrow tea has been used to treat fevers and colds.

Relieving pain: Yarrow can help with toothaches, muscle spasms, and PMS spastic pain.

Reducing inflammation: Yarrow has been used to treat Crohn’s disease and ulcerative colitis.

Soothing stomach issues: Yarrow may help with indigestion, heartburn, and stomach cramps.

Gardening: Yarrow can be grown as a cut flower or dried flower, and its cultivars come in a variety of colors.

Grow Chamomile

Chamomile can be grown in Tucson, Arizona, and is considered a cool-season annual herb:

When to plant

Sow seeds in early spring or fall when temperatures are above 55°F.

Where to plant

Chamomile prefers full sun and well-drained soil. If you have caliche soil, you can grow chamomile in pots with a cactus soil mix.

How to care for

Water regularly after planting and keep weed free. Chamomile plants are hardy and don’t need winter cover.

Types of chamomile

German chamomile can be grown in the winter, but needs to be replanted each year because it dies in the heat. Roman chamomile is best planted in the spring and uses more water than native plants.

German chamomile can be grown very easily in the cooler months of winter, while the Roman chamomile is best planted in spring. Both need six to eight hours of sunlight per day. Like many herbs, they do best in well drained soil. Thus if you have caliche soils, consider growing them in pots with a cactus soil mix

Nail Fungus Herbes

Apple cider vinegar

Soak your feet in a solution of one part apple cider vinegar to two parts warm water for at least 30 minutes a day.

Tea Tree Oil Treasure

Tea tree oil, renowned for its antifungal properties, can be a potent ally against nail fungus. Diluted tea tree oil can be applied directly to affected nails to help combat the fungal invasion.

Snakeroot extract

Snakeroot (Ageratina pichinchensis) extract is an antifungal made from plants in the sunflower family.

An older 2008 study showed that the remedy is effective against toenail fungus as the antifungal medication ciclopirox.

For the study, snakeroot extract was applied to the affected area every third day for the first month, twice a week for the second month, and once a week for the third month.

Oregano oil

Dilute oregano oil and apply it to the affected nails, as the thymol in oregano oil is antifungal and antibacterial.

Vicks VapoRub

Apply Vicks VapoRub to the affected nail, which contains camphor, eucalyptus oil, and menthol, which may help stop the growth of certain fungi.

Queens Wreath Vine (Coral Vine)

How to grow coral vine (queen’s wreath) in Arizona:

When to plant coral vine in Arizona: Spring and fall. Coral vine dies back with cold weather but regrows in the spring. Foliage hardy to 28°F; roots hardy to 20°F

Where to plant coral vine: Full sun to partial sun. Tolerates hot areas. Can be grown in native soil or fertile soil but needs well-draining soil.

How big does coral vine get?15′-30′ tall and 15′- 30′ wide. Very fast grower. Can be invasive in other climates.

Do I need to provide support for coral vine? Grows well along an arbor or trellis.

What color are coral vine flowers?Most often pink, but occasionally white or red.

When does coral vine bloom?Blooms are showiest in October, but occasional blooms from spring through frost.

Is coral vine messy? Coral vine drops most of its leaves in winter. Cut back to a several inches above the ground each spring. Will regrow quickly. Prune lightly in the summer to maintain shape or train.

Good to know:Apply a balanced organic fertilizer (5-3-3 to young plants in early spring. Mulch well. Water established plants weekly during the summer. Rainfall is typically enough for winter watering.

Pruning Fig Trees

pruning fig trees:
After leaves have fallen off and sap is not moving, cut 1st year stem back to 2 ft.

Never Fail Fudge

From Domino powdered sugar box

1 lb. pkg. Powdered Sugar (3 3⁄4 cups)
1⁄2 cup cocoa powder, unsweetened
6 tablespoons butter or margarine
1⁄4 cup milk
2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1⁄4 teaspoon salt
1 cup walnuts or pecans, chopped
Yields: 24 squares
Grease a 9×12-inch loaf pan. or a cookie sheet

Combine the confectioners sugar, cocoa powder, salt, butter, milk, and vanilla extract in the top of a double boiler over simmering water. Stir until all ingredients are mixed, smooth, and the mixture is glossy. Stir in the nuts or any other add-ins.

Quickly pour the mixture into the prepared loaf pan.

Refrigerate 2 hours or until firm. Cut into squares.

Equipment

Materials

Instructions

Notes

FOLK INFUSION METHOD

Anise:

Calendula:

Chamomile:

Chives:

Dill:

Ginger:

Lemon Grass:

Nasturtium:

Rosemary:

Turmeric:

Instructions

Notes

Ingredients

For Woody Herbs like Rosemary, Winter Savory, and Thyme:

Instructions

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Ingredients you’ll need…